Hakumai Sushi and Omakase: Where Aburi meets Edomae

Aburi Otoro

I must confess, I am not a true purist. Try as I might to stick to tradition fully and follow the ways of old, I fall into temptation to try out new and innovative products that actually work well. This is the dilemma I face when I decide to have sushi.

While I highly revere and respect the Edomae style of serving sushi as it is; pure and unadulterated, Aburi comes along teasingly and I find myself unable to resist, and I have to make a trip to Hakumai, where my itamae Chef Gary-san is based in now. Some of you might know him from the old restaurant Kome (located at Keppel Club) and Hinoki (located at China Square Central) where he was before with partner Lawrence Chia (brother of Ronnie Chia who owns Tatsuya). They have went their separate ways and he has set up a small shop at International Plaza. Gary's sushi comes with a twist, adding a little extra special ingredient here and there in order to give the final product some additional oomph and burst of flavour.

Gary starts his sushi Omakase with a bang. Think a slice of fatty unctuous otoro blowtorched to melt the fats and lightly sear the fish to give it a smoky flavour. It was simply sublime.

Aburi Mekajiki with yuzu kosho

Mekajiki or swordfish is a dark horse sashimi amongst Singaporeans. Those of us who love this neta, appreciate it for its meaty texture and buttery mouthfeel that develops more as one slowly savours it. Gary scores and blowtorches the mekajiki and adds a pinch of yuzu pepper that brings out the flavour and also cuts through the oily-ness in order that it might not be too heavy. This is another must have for me.

Aburi Botan Ebi with Foie Gras

This, is Gary's signature and the peak of the omakase. A ball of sushi rice topped with a butterflied botan ebi, and with a piece of foie gras seared to perfection, sitting comfortably and looking ever so sexy. Gary drips a little sauce of reduced shoyu and mirin on top. This is undeniably aburi at its best. The freshness of the prawn was still evident despite it being torched. The foie gras, so seductively creamy, smoky and just bursting with buttery goodness just went so well together with the botan ebi like a match made in heaven. I could pop five of this in one sitting and die happy. This is what makes me go for aburi, and you can't say Gary did an omakase for you if he has not served this to you.

Aburi Hotate with Mentaiyaki (Seared Scallop with Spicy Cod Roe mayonnaise)

Coming in at a very close second is the Scallop with the Spicy Cod Roe mayonnaise which Gary makes in-house. The savoury, creamy Mentaiko gives an additional dimension to the sweet, bouncy and luscious scallop, resulting in a myriad of interlaying flavours that just balances and sits nicely.

Uni (Sea Urchin) Gunkan

After all the hype and fanfare with the aburi nigiri, Gary then brings me back down to earth (albeit a very nice comfortable spot) with his Uni. There is nothing fancy and innovative about this sushi. Just creamy uni on a bed of Koshihikari rice with nori wrapped around it. Sometimes, simple is best, and the uni here is the definition of it.

Ikura (salmon roe) gunkan

The same goes for the ikura. Though with this gunkan Gary grates a little yuzu zest and dusts it on top of the salmon roe. Pretty nice, but it is light-years away from the sake-soaked ikura I get at Meii Sushi, which incidentally, is just one level above Hakumai.

Tekka Maki (Minced Tuna Roll) with Bonito flakes

Most places would do negitoro (minced tuna belly with chopped spring onions) in the form of a temaki (handroll), but I definitely prefer it served in a form of maki like this as it allows me to taste the fish and the rice better due to the increase in exposed surface of the sushi.

Anago (Conger/Sea Water Eel)

Concluding the meal like any other omakase  is Anago. Sea eel is different from Unagi, which usually comes from freshwaters. Sea eel is often used to conclude an omakase as it is usually drizzled with a thick master stock that is heavily reduced to give it a sticky viscous texture and concentrated flavour. Good Anago should be able to achieve a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Unfortunately Hakumai's version on this is still below par and there is much to improve on.

Kyoho Grapes Ice Cream

Yuzu Sorbet

I was hoping for some Japanese musk melon to close the wonderfully satisfying meal, but Gary told me that they were out of stock. Nevertheless, they offer a range of flavours for their ice cream and sorbets like Kyoho Grapes, yuzu, goma and matcha. I chose the above 2 to end my meal on a light and refreshing note.

Edomae or Aburi? These are two schools of thoughts with their own individual arguments, and strengths and weaknesses. Traditional Japanese chefs will baulk and rage at the idea of using a blowtorch to spoil their perfectly moulded sushi. They see it as an insult and feel it compromises the integrity of their creations. On the flip side an itamae of the new era would choose to improve on his sushi further by selecting specific ingredients, or employing the use of other instruments  in an attempt to set their own mark and signature on the sushi and satisfy the ever-changing demands and tastebuds of the customer. While most people in Japan would stick to tradition, the same cannot be said for the other countries. It is a debate that can never be fully won by both sides, as it ultimately boils down to the taste of the customer and his individual beliefs.

As for me, I find myself gravitating more towards Edomae Sushi whenever I have a need to satisfy my own cravings. Having aburi sushi is all about being adventurous and involves a great deal of experimenting in finding a suitable ingredient to match the fish. There will be hits and misses. Having an omakase comprising of Edomae sushi, however, takes on a more formal setting where there is a basic form of respect for the itamae and his attempts to bring you the purest form of sushi dating back centuries. This is the reason why I fell in love with Japanese cuisine in the first place, and in my heart of hearts, I still want my sushi to be just as it was 300 years ago when it was being sold as street food in Edo (now modern day Tokyo).

That said, if you are looking to have sushi with a little twist and still get a wonderful experience, Gary has never failed me once with his creations. With his amiable and humourous nature, Gary is an easy-going chef where you can be at ease with yourself and the atmosphere and enjoy your blowtorched nigiri with no reservations (pun unintended).

Overall, Hakumai is a small little sushi-ya helmed by an old friend and friendly wait staff who are always at hand to assist you, and a fun and informal place to have an outstanding aburi experience.

Hakumai Sushi & Omakase
#01-50A International Plaza
10 Anson Road
Singapore 079903
Contact No: +65 6224 4790

Nearest MRT: Tanjong Pagar

Operating hours:
Closed on Sundays
Lunch: 11.30am to 3.00pm
Dinner: 6.00pm to 10.30pm
(Last Order are 45 minutes before closing)

Closed on Sundays

Gyu-an. A5 Wagyu from Kobe in Ginza

I remember my very first Wagyu.

It was back in 2007, and my elder brother who is a crazier foodie than me, told me of this "new type of Japanese beef" that was being sold in Astons' Specialties Katong for $38.80, which was a steal at that point in time. It was a USDA MBS (Marbling Beef Score) Grade 5 Ribeye cut, and the beef hailed from "Mayura Station", southern Australia.


"Wa- what?" I asked.

Prior to that, I was totally ignorant of Japanese beef and the intense marbling of the meat, and the processes in which the cow underwent to achieve such a high standard of grading, which gives the meat a rich, buttery flavour and a slight floral fragrance, which is a total contrast to the heavy, 'beefiness' of the typical Black Angus.

Fast forward a few years, wagyu now has become very accessible to the general public, with some restaurants offering it at unbelievable prices like $6.90 for a platter of wagyu slices. It has become a household name to be assosciated with "prime, luxury and highly-marbled beef"

Therein, lies the problem. By selling it at such low prices, something's gotta give and in this case more often than not, it is the quality of the beef that suffers. I have even heard of some restaurants attempting to 'fake' marbling by solidifying canola oil and placing it on the beef to make it appear well-marbled so that they can charge a premium for it. Another problem is that most customers will most probably not get the real McCoy, thereby ruining their first experience, which is a shame.

Secondly, there's wagyu, and then there's Japanese wagyu. One difference being that wagyu that is exported out of Japan is usually crossbred with another species like the Angus cow which results in a cow that has parents of different origins, (with the exception of David Blackmore of Australia who is recognized by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture to breed and raise pure-blood wagyu due to his efforts to replicate highly similar farming methods).

However, Japanese wagyu that remains in its own land, breeds only with other wagyu cows of the same species, and even the same region, which results in a purer meat with its own individual tastes and characteristics. So in the case of Japanese wagyu, they can come from regions like Kobe, Kagoshima, Matsuzaka, and the legendary Mishima beef, which is only consumed in Japan strictly, and only 12 head of cattle is produced and slaughtered per year.

Mixed greens with yellow and red peppers and julienned carrots

But that's another story. For now, I take you to Ginza, Tokyo where I had my very first real, authentic Japanese Full Blood Wagyu from the region of Kobe.

It took me a great deal of courage to head to Ginza, because of the region's infamy with ridiculously high prices, but after a great deal of research online, I found out that Gyu-an was tourist-friendly (they have English menus) with the prices stated clearly, so I would not be in for a rude shock.

I ordered the A5 Striploin, which was one of their prime items. They also have the A5 tenderloin which costs more if memory serves. Starting off with a refreshing salad dressed with yuzu vinaigrette which lightly teased my tastebuds, I prepared myself mentally and spiritually for the beef to arrive. 15 minutes later, this arrived.

Japanese MBS Grade A5 Kobe Wagyu Striploin. 7500 yen (SGD $115 at point of purchase)

Hello you beauty...

Ahem. Anyways, the wagyu came pre-sliced and sizzling smoking on a teppan (hot plate) with onions beneath the meat to prevent overcooking, along with a scoop of homemade mash, carrots and long beans.

I could hardly care less about the sides as I just marveled at the sheer pristine and radiant nature of the beef. Now these are hardly words to describe beef which is usually robust, heavy bodied and well rounded. But such is the work and interpretation of the Nihon-jin where they take anything of foreign origin and bring it up to new, unprecedented levels.

The beef was so, so tender but yet it still held its shape and structure. At first sniff, the meat combined the appetizing aroma of beef and somehow, flowers. The taste? Each bite was a slice of buttery, beef heaven. This is a steak which appeals not so much to the carnivorous nature of men, but more the need of the divine. Nothing less.

Some hardcore beef lovers have gripes with the lack of "beefiness" in a meat so refined, but I'm glad to say that amidst all the "flowery and buttery" flavours, the "beefy" flavour is evident in the meat, thanks to the lightly seared outside of the beef which has been Maillard-ed sufficiently.

Rare or Medium Rare?

The best doneness for beef is always medium-rare, as most would say. However, with Japanese wagyu, one can take one step down and order "rare", or even "medium raw" which allows you to better appreciate the flavour of the meat and its juices. That was perhaps, my one tinge of regret; not being adventurous enough. I am definitely ordering "rare" and below the next time I am fortunate enough to have pure Japanese wagyu.

Condiments from top to bottom: Ponzu, Goma and Rock Salt

The meal came with a condiment platter of 3 types of seasonings. I saw some of my neighbouring diners pouring the ponzu onto the teppan as it was sizzling. But being the purist I am, I just had to show utmost respect to the farmers, chef and the beef by just sprinkling the rock salt onto the beef. The salt drew the flavours out even further, and my tastebuds were in overdrive.

This was another one of those life goals which I am glad to have achieved and strike off my "to-do" list. The beef was truly a moment of revelation, and for the quality you are getting, the price is considered reasonable, taking into account that you are in Japan and in Ginza.

All I can say is, if you want a quintessential experience of Kobe wagyu but yet not burn a hole in your pocket, head down to Gyu-an where the friendly "obasan" at the basement entrance welcomes you warmly into their her abode like any good Japanese establishment. Cleanse your palate, calm yourself down, and just sink your teeth into a beef like no other.

Gyu-an
6-13-6, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Monday - Saturday Lunch: 11:30 - 14:00(L.O.13:30)
Monday - Saturday Dinner: 17:30 - 22:00(L.O.21:30)
Holiday 17:00 - 21:30(L.O.21:00)
Closed on Sundays

Note: For reading the Japanese addreses like this, "Ginza" here refers to the neighbourhood and "Chuo-ku" refers to the ward. The three numbers separated by hyphens "6-13-6"  mean "Chome (area), ban (block), go (building).

Meii Sushi: Thick, Luscious, Overflowing.

Trio of Otoro (Tuna Belly), Salmon and Kanpachi (Yellowtail) Sashimi.

As one who is deeply in love with Japanese cuisine and its finer points and details, Sushi holds a very special place in my heart. As some of us may know, really really good sushi does not come cheap, usually above a hundred dollars for a full course. As such, it is usually reserved for a special occasion, or when I simply have a carnal craving which needs to be satiated immediately. In cases like these, an omakase is in order.

For the uninitiated, the term Omakase means "to entrust" or "I'll leave it to you (the chef)". It involves no form of ordering by the customer, and he leaves it all up to the Chef to present a menu that generally features the chef's signature items, and any special dishes he may have at that point in time. Typically, there is a certain progression to the meal, starting with appetizer(s), a sashimi platter, several dishes, a sushi course and finally ending with dessert.

Some important points to note before having an Omakase:

1) Sit at the counter. An omakase is not an omakase if you are not sitting at the counter with the chef serving you the sushi directly and engaging him in conversation about the meal.

2) Always let the chef know beforehand if you have any dietary restrictions (allergies and preferences) so he knows what NOT to serve you during the course of the meal.

3) As an omakase is usually expensive ($100 and above), never be afraid to ask for the price first. There is absolutely nothing embarrassing about it, and clarifying before hand can prevent any misunderstanding when it comes to payment. Should you wish to have a more personalized omakase (in terms of price, type and quantity of dishes offered) do let your chef know so he can make the necessary arrangements for you, be it if you wish to have a smaller, less expensive meal, or if you wish to go full YOLO (You Only Live Once) mode and splurge half your salary on one meal.

4) When eating the sushi, NEVER, EVER, separate the neta (fish) away from the shari (rice). This is an ultimate insult to the Chef, and you risk being unceremoniously thrown out of the restaurant. 

With all decorum taken in point, I now present to you Meii Sushi.

Sashimi Platter: Otoro, Salmon Belly, Kanpachi

Meii Sushi is a shop very much like what you would find in Japan itself: Small enough for about 15-20 people, unassuming and run by a husband-wife team. In here, the counter seats about 14 people, and they have tables which sit about another 15.

Chef Hong's take on sashimi is to cut it thickly in large slices so as to let his guests enjoy the taste of the fish better with the increased size and exposed surface of the sashimi. Some may frown upon such a way of presenting sashimi as compared to the more conventional way of cutting, but I am not complaining. Having a slice of otoro the thickness of my finger and letting the omega-3 fatty goodness coat my mouth is just simply a sensation which leaves me craving for more.

Uni Onsen: Sea Urchin and soft boiled egg in mirin and sake topped with nori

The uni onsen is something to behold. Take fresh sea urchin that is in season, soft boil an egg to runny goodness, add in a mixture of mirin and sake for dimensionality and to cut through the overall richness of the dish, and you have a bowl of heaven in your hands. Need I say more? 

Fresh Hokkaido Oyster with yuzu and capers. 

As mentioned earlier, if you are lucky, the Chef may have imported some special fish or ingredient. The Hokkaido oyster is a good example. The oyster was HUGE (my hands are gigantic just so you know). Once again, Chef Hong allows the freshness of the oyster to shine by simply just shucking it open and adding a dash of yuzu (Japanese Citrus) and some capers and putting this monster mollusk on my hand. I took it all at one go, and with closed eyes, concentrated my entire being on savouring the texture, freshness and umami goodness of the oyster. Upon swallowing, I let out a big satisfied "aahh" with a smack on my lips like how one would when he drinks a soft fizzy drink on a hot summer's day.

Otoro Nigiri (Tuna Belly) for 4 pax

Sushi. Why is it so expensive despite it only consisting of fish and rice? How can something so simple contain so much depth in flavour?

These are the questions I get when I tell my friends my idea of an ultimate meal, and here are some points which I feel are important for people to begin to understand Sushi.

Simple, because it consists of only 2 main ingredients, the neta and the shari. By stripping away everything else that is unnecessary, one gets to concentrate and focus on the ingredients at hand and what they offer.

Detail: Despite its simplicity, a lot of detail that is often not noticed goes into making a nigiri. The type of rice used, the mixture of the vinegar used to flavour the rice, how many grains go into making a nigiri, the thickness of the fish, its seasonality...These are just tips of the iceberg into the art of sushi making. To be a fully accomplished itamae (Chef of the board, referring to the Sushi Chef), it takes approximately 10 years or more (which is why separating the fish from the rice is a major faux pas), with the first few years of which are devoted to mundane but important tasks such as washing of dishes and knowing how to prepare the rice, which is undoubtedly, the heart of the sushi.

Purity: "Ultimate Simplicity leads to Purity"- Masuhiro Yamamoto, food critic, in "Jiro Dreams of Sushi". This quote pretty much sums up the level of which all sushi chefs want their work to be. Pure and untainted by all other worldly contamination. It's just the fish, the rice, the chef, and you.

Too often, people disregard the rice and only pay attention to the fish. But if you take a slice of high quality otoro and put it on a ball of sub-standard rice, chances are your sushi is not going to taste proper. 

The otoro here is unctuous, creamy and fatty. The rice, served at body temperature offers a slightly acidic but comfortable contrast to the otoro. Together, they provide a sushi that fulfills all aspects of the discerning sushi lover.

Kanpachi Nigiri (Yellowtail)

Yellowtail is a fish that is not very popular with Singaporeans as compared to the more quintessential and ubiquitous Otoro and Salmon Belly. But people who love this fish appreciate it for its mild, clean flavour with its smooth and tender texture that is hard to find except in good yellowtail. Unlike Otoro which plays the role of a foxy vixen that seduces you and renders resistance futile, Kanpachi is like a gentle, docile fairy that lightly caresses your taste buds, leaving you to explore more of what lies beneath its plain surface. 

The yellowtail served by Chef Hong is creamy, savoury and yet light on the palate. With each piece, I imagine myself in a lush green field with a clear blue sky just listening to the wind blow gently...

I digress.

Uni (Sea Urchin)

If there was an item out of Chef Hong's arsenal of ingredients that best defines him, it has to be his Uni. Chef Hong imports different type of Sea Urchin like the Murasaki Uni (Purple Sea Urchin) and Sakura Uni (Cherry Blossom Sea Urchin) which are not common here in Singapore restaurants, and are subject to seasonal availability. Like the thickness of the sashimi, Chef loves to put a little more of the fish/ingredient onto his gunkan such that it overflows slightly. With the Uni about to drip off, I wasted no time in popping this sea-flavoured orgasm bomb and I literally entered into a state of nirvana where the words "Uni...Uni..." became almost like a meditative chant. No words can do justice to his Uni, but suffice to say it is nothing short of divine.

Ikura (Salmon Roe) Gunkan

Ikura is another one of those highly overlooked neta where most people think it is just balls of sodium. I could not disagree more, as good ikura provides a savoury burst with a touch of fruitiness that cannot be replicated by any other ingredient. However, Chef Hong goes one step further and marinates his ikura in sake for a few hours. Upon serving, the ikura is not only salty but has a sweet and almost floral fragrance to it with a gentle and subtle warmth from the alcohol content. The contrast in taste, temperature and texture is dynamic and well-balanced. This is another must-have in Meii Sushi.

Hamburg Sushi: From top to bottom: Green tobiko, Daikon, Salmon Belly, Otoro, Hirame

Occasionally, Chef Hong does take a break away from tradition and has fun with his food, usually by request of his guests. (That does not mean it is okay to ask him to do "Aburi") For the grand finale, Chef Hong decided to just pile on the best of his ingredients onto one single nigiri. The differing flavours and textures of this sushi was overwhelming and came too fast and hard for me to actually detect each single fish used for this sushi, so I had to rely on his words alone. But the taste alone was just once again, out of this world. This was truly the piece de resistance for us and this "hamburger sushi" just blew us all away with no hopes of ever recovering.

Chef Hong

Chef Hong was known to be quite a character in the past in his previous establishments, where he turned down many an unknowing diner who attempted to have things his way and it was difficult to get a place in his restaurant. But fast forward to the present, he is a very down-to-earth and amicable person who takes some time to warm up to. But once you do, he is also quite an amusing man and always ensures that he serves you only the best of what he has to offer, coupled with the occasional piece of information of the dish. I can safely trust him to deliver a consistently positive omakase when the time (and wallet) allows.

This is my type of Omakase: A small restaurant, run by a husband-wife couple, helmed by a Chef with character, and overall, offering simple, pure and unadulterated sushi.

Meii Sushi

#02-54 International Plaza
10 Anson Road

Nearest MRT Station: Tanjong Pagar

6220 3466 (Call for Reservations and Operating Hours)

Please ask for permission before you take any pictures in the restaurant.

Ramen Santouka. Hearty, Generous and Piping Hot as Ramen should be.

For the virgin post of the blog, I felt it only appropriate that I should choose a place that was imperative to forming the foodie in me. It was only after becoming a foodie where I began to take greater care of the form of substinence I was putting into my body, not only in terms of health, but also in terms of taste and texture. No longer was I content to be ruled by the opinions of others of what was "supposed to be tasty and delicious" as most people in my age tend to be in their formative years. Food is a universal topic that binds us all, and everyone has their own indiviual tastes and palates, which is what makes food such a dynamic subject of conversation. No one single opinion is more important than the other because after all, it is you eating and enjoying it.

With that aside, I shall start proper. 

Ramen is an every day food in Japan, present in every street and corner selling different variatons, depending on the region you are in. From the type of noodles used, to the soup base and ingredients, each version can provide a totally different experience and sensation. For example, the Sapporo, Hokkaido style of ramen usually features thick, curly yellow noodles and relies heavily on Miso as the main flavouring agent.

Which brings me to Ramen Santouka.

Santouka originated from the town of Asahikawa, Hokkaido and is one of the most popular Ramen stalls here in Singapore for its unadulterated and no-nonsense Ramen. It comes in a hearty portion, topped with condiments like black fungus, freshly chopped spring onions, bamboo shoots and a small piece of naruto (japanese fish cake).

Tokusen Toroniku (Choice Pork Cheeks)

If you are a first timer to this establishment, the tokusen toroniku, or pork cheeks is the signature of the shop. According to their menu, only 200-300 grams can be harvested per pig, which makes this cut of pork that much more prized and rare. But funnily enough, despite its perpetual long queues and popularity over the years, there was never a time where the waitress told me that they had run out of them.

Each slice is a sinful indulgence of the tender, unctuous kurobuta pork with the fats evenly interspersed along the meat, and it brings the level of Ramen enjoyment to a whole new level altogether. What I usually like to do is to pick up one slice of cheek, dip and swirl it around inside the soup for a good 5 seconds to warm it up and emulsify the fat within the meat and finally popping it into the crevices of my mouth, with my taste buds in overdrive, slowly savouring the flavour of the meat. Rinse and repeat for another 5 times.

Tokusen Toroniku Ramen, Miso Soup base. $19.90 ++

 In Santouka, they offer their customers 3 different kinds of soup flavours, namely Shio (Salt), Shoyu (Soy Sauce) and Miso (Soy bean paste). Santouka uses the "Tonkotsu" soup base as the foundation for the soup for its Ramen, which is made with pork bones, dried fish, kombu (kelp) and many other special and secret ingredients and, according to their website, simmering it for 20 hours to truly extract the flavour from these ingredients which results in a hearty, rich and full-bodied broth which I never fail to finish to the last drop every, single, time.

But therein lies the other side of the coin, where some people would say that Ramen Santouka is too salty and heavy for their liking, and they prefer something a little lighter on their palates. To some extent I can see where they are coming from due to the higher fat content of the pork cheeks and also the shimmering layer of oil that is conspicuous to the health conscious which results in thoughts of cholesterol filling up their arteries, making them shudder in fear.

That said, to me Ramen is simply comfort food that should be hearty, rustic and just served simply and simply served. Few things are as good as having a bowl of Santouka's Ramen on a cold, rainy night, with its steaming, hot soup and its al dente noodles and of course, that ever so sinful piece of pork cheek.

For 3 years I have been patronizing Santouka, and I have still yet to find another place both in Singapore and in Japan to claim top spot for "Best Ramen" in my heart. Santouka is my place to go when I have that nagging craving for a bowl of warm, rich and tasty Ramen.

Ramen Santouka
#02-76 The Central
6 Eu Tong Sen Street
62440668

Nearest MRT Station: Clarke Quay

Open Daily
Operating Hours:
1100 - 2200
Last Order at 2145

Please note that they do not accept reservations.