 |
Sawara (Spanish Mackerel)
|
I could not help it.
I was so enamoured of my last visit to Shinji, I found myself making reservations to re-live the wonder and magic of such an illustrious institution and proud bastion of Japan's oldest food traditions. Armed with a little extra cash from the Chinese New Year ang pows, my dining companions and I took our seats at the smooth and flawless hinoki wood counter and embraced the serenity, silence and anticipation of the symphony of sushi that was to follow.
 |
| Shima Aji (Striped Jack) |
The 12 piece "Tsuki" (月) lunch set commenced with the usual shiromi dane suspects. The sawara and shima aji were on form, awakening my taste buds with their light, clean, and refreshing nature. Freshness is paramount for fish of this category in order that full justice can be done to them, and their flavours brought out fully. Needless to say, the skillful and experienced itamae delivered duly.
 |
Sayori (Half-beak/Needlefish)
|
I was beyond delighted to know that I would have the rare opportunity to partake in such a rare tane on this visit. Sayori is best served in spring, and my maiden experience was one to remember fondly. The texture is slightly firmer but not chewy. The flavour profile is again similar to the other fish like flounder and the striped jack.
 |
Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)
|
I met my old, velvety, crimson friend laying so seductively on a bed of perfectly seasoned shari. The chutoro once again passed with flying colours with its deep and full bodied flavour, with the moderate streaks of marbling providing a touch of richness.
 |
Shimofuri Otoro (Fatty Tuna Belly with "Snow frost Marbling"
|
The term "Shimofuri" refers to the marbling pattern of maguro that largely resembles a "snow-frost" pattern, and is usually found on the premium cuts like the 'hoho' (cheek) and 'noten' (head) parts of the fish itself. It is almost impossible to chew on the otoro at all since the fish was almost melting the moment the heat from the tongue permeated through the tuna belly. Expertly moulded with top quality Japanese rice, this is indulgence at its finest.
 |
Aji (Horse Mackerel)
|
Holding its own against the more sinful and easy to enjoy counterparts, the Aji itself was a force to be reckoned with. It may not boast the creamy and buttery characters of the chutoro and otoro, but what it lacks in texture, it more than compensates in flavour. The Aji is the most prized fish of its category (hikari mono or 'shiny fish'), and it may give off an unpleasant fishy odour that may threaten to upset the progression of sushi if not handled well. But we were to have none of that here in Shinji, testament to the finesse and mastery of the chefs.
 |
| Katsuo/Bonito (Skipjack) |
We are familiar with the bonito fish in the form of flakes that we sprinkle over our takoyaki (grilled octopus balls), but to taste the skipjack in its raw form is always a treat. I was lucky enough to have it back in Osaka's Koyoshi Sushi, and I was glad to have it here again in Shinji. The aroma undoubtedly conforms to the flavour of the bonito flakes which will trigger memories. But the taste and texture itself is almost similar to the lean tuna. This is perhaps the only other fish belonging to the akami dane (red-flesh fish) category aside from tuna.
 |
| Hokkaido Uni (Sea Urchin) |
There were many audible "oohs" and "ahhs" resounding from my party as the chef removed this box of golden, luscious uni. A sushi topping never to be missed under any circumstances, we waited eagerly as our chef moulded the gunkan for us.
 |
| Uni Gunkan |
Uni. You either love it or hate it, and I consider myself blessed to be able to enjoy this delicacy.
Bad uni can have the consistency of slime and a taste similar to wastage found in sewerage systems, which may explain why people may shun away from such an indulgent ingredient. Good uni like the one here is the complete antithesis of it. Creamy, buttery and ever so seductive, it took all of my self-control to not ask for a second piece.
 |
Negitoro (Minced Tuna Belly with sliced Japanese leek)
|
Nearing the end of our sushi course, the chef wowed us with a display of his knife skills as he minced up some tuna belly and expertly butterflied and cut up white Japanese leek and folded it into the mixture before topping it on the rice. The sushi was juicy with a slight sweet and sharp underlying tones which balanced the fatty tuna nicely.
 |
Anago (Conger eel)
|
Almost always used as the grand finale, a piece of conger eel which has been boiled to a meltingly tender texture under the watchful eyes of the chef acts as the closure to the meal. The anago was clean, creamy and the sauce elevated the sushi to a whole new level.
 |
| Tamago |
So, so deceptively simple...yet one taste of the quintessential tamago is enough for sushi connoisseurs to gauge the chef's skills. I am certainly no expert, but suffice to say I enjoyed every single last nibble of the fragrant, subtly sweet and custard-like texture of the tamago.
 |
| Warabi Mochi |
Warabi Mochi is a jelly-like cake (similar to our local "muah chee") made from broken starch and dipped in kinao (sweetened and toasted soybean flour) and then drizzled with some palm sugar syrup. Slightly nuttier than the common mochi, the dessert provided a lasting sweet ending to the meal...
Or did it?
 |
| Uni Rice. Sushi rice mixed with Sea Urchin, topped with ikura and Negitoro |
About two-thirds into my set lunch, I spied a couple in the same room who seemed to be extremely occupied digging their way into a small bowl. Upon further enquiry with the chef who checked with us on any last orders, I confirmed my suspicions, threw caution to the wind and added one last item.
Uni, Otoro and Ikura. Some might dub these as the Holy Trinity of indulgences in the world of Edomae Sushi. When all three unite and come together, the results are divine, sublime and absolutely mind blowing. Words are simply unable to do sufficient justice to such a bowl fit for the gods.
The chef first scoops up some shari onto a bowl, places some uni into it and mixes the rice evenly so that every single grain is coated with that golden goodness. He then minces some otoro and leek and places it on top, and 2 generous scoops of ikura then flank the bowl, and the trinity is complete.
I've been asked before "What would your last meal be?". I've searched and pondered deeply for years, constantly looking for a single dish that would let me go out with a bang. At long last, I have found it, and I am glad to be alive to tell the tale. A big bowl of Uni, Otoro and Ikura would be a fitting end.
Thinking to myself that nothing could top my virgin visit to Shinji, I was proven utterly wrong this time. The food, service and ambience are stellar and second to none. I highly doubt any other sushi-ya will be able to displace Shinji, save for maybe Jiro or Saito in Japan itself.
A meal at Shinji by Kanesaka is not just a dining experience; it is a spiritual encounter between you, the sushi and the chef.
Shinji by Kanesaka
#02-20, Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road (Via Seah Street Lobby)
Singapore 189673
Lunch Hours: 12pm to 3 pm
Dinner Hours: 6.00pm to 10.30pm
Closed on Sundays.
Nearest MRT Station: City Hall
Link to their website.
No comments:
Post a Comment