Genkatsu. It's Pork Cotton Candy.

THIS SHOP IS CLOSED

Kimukatsu Trio Platter.
From left clockwise: Yuzu Pepper, Garlic and Cheese

Mention the word Tonkatsu and most would immediately think of a large, thick slab of pork coated with flour, eggwash and fine panko (japanese breadcrumbs) deep fried to a golden crisp and bursting with juices.

I present an alternative to you today: The Kimukatsu.

Considered a variation of its more common counterpart, the approach to kimukatsu is to cut the meat into paper-thin slices and stack them meticulously one on top of the other before breading and frying them. As you can imagine, the process is much more tedious and requires more skill and finesse to execute properly.

Enter in Genkatsu, a little restaurant located on the third floor of a narrow spiral building in the upscale district of Ginza in Tokyo. Having been here for close to a decade, it has gained a sizable following and loyal customers alike.

Genkatsu considers each aspect of the Kimukatsu carefully. The batter is thin, crisp and not oily. The pork they use is locally sourced kurobuta, thereby ensuring consistency in its quality.

Yuzu Pepper Kimukatsu

Genkatsu also provides a wide variety of flavours to spice things up and give customers more choice. Aside from the plain Kimukatsu, flavours like Cheese, Garlic and Black Pepper are also available. I selected Cheese, Garlic and Yuzu Pepper as these are my top 3 favourite flavours in their menu.

Cheese Kimukatsu. Molten goodness.

"Won't the cheese overpower/interfere with such a finely sliced piece of pork which is already so flavourful?"

I am glad to say otherwise. On the contrary, the cheese further augments the umami sensations and increases satisfaction levels twofold. The profiles of the pork and cheese complement each other very well and it is no wonder that their cheese kimukatsu is the most popular choice here among the customers.

But the differentiating factor lies not so much in the flavour but in the texture itself. A normal tonkatsu, no matter how tender still requires some form of chewing. At the first vertical motion of the jaw, kimukatsu practically dissolves like cotton candy, while still releasing sufficient juices at the same time. In essence, you're getting pork fairy dust neatly encased in a crisp, thin batter. Ladies who are not fans of overly heavy and substantial fried meats would find this a wonderful alternative to enjoy katsu.

Layers

Each cutlet is thoughtfully cut into equal, bite-sized pieces to minimize effort on the diner's part. Pick up your chopsticks, carefully grab a piece and feel the kimukatsu literally melt by the mere heat from your tongue.

Rice cooked ala minute

Another notable highlight is that the rice here is prepared in individual portions and cooked only upon every new order. They time it such that when the kimukatsu is ready to be served, the rice will be literally fresh out of the steamer to be served to the guests. Kudos to the management team and staff for taking on such a laborious process to go that one step further in quality.

Genkatsu offers a refreshing and refined take on tonkatsu, while still retaining the usual services such as free flow cabbage and rice. The dining atmosphere is comfortable and not too formal while the service staff are cheerful and efficient. A whole range of condiments (tonkatsu sauce, salt and ponzu are available to go with the meats) and cabbage here is free flow like any other respectable tonkatsu establishment.

This place warrants multiple visits for its commitment to quality. The prices here are also easy on the wallet, which makes it more accessible for customers. Come here if you wish to experience a new perspective on the humble tonkatsu and be pleasantly surprised.

Genkatsu (Ginza Branch)
4-6-18 Ginza
Ginza Act Building 3F
Chuo 104-0061
Tokyo Prefecture

Operating hours:
1130-2300
Last order at 2230

Nearest Station:
Ginza Subway Station on Ginza Line, Hibiya Line and Marunochi Line.

Link to their website.

English menus are available, but they differ slightly from the Japanese menu so having a dining companion familiar with the language would be advantageous.