Shinjuku Izakaya: Eat, Drink and be Merry.

Mentaiko Udon Itame. Pan Fried Udon Noodles with Cod Roe on Hot Plate. $16

As much as I love sushi, I would be lying if I said I could eat it every day. But I can have izakaya everyday.

For those not in the know, an Izakaya (居酒屋) is a place for drinks and bites, a concept similar to tapas bars in Spain. People head down after office hours to unwind over overflowing glasses of sake, beers and whiskies. But of course, the food plays a pivotal role in the overall experience too. You can find literally anything; from sashimi to yakitori and noodle dishes to go along with your beverage of choice.

Having been to its more commercially successful cousin/competitor Izakaya Nijumaru located 3 levels above, I was curious to explore the quieter and smaller Shinjuku Izakaya located at the first level of Cuppage Plaza.

The place was what I envisioned it to be: Cosy, narrow sitting with a cacophony of chatter and laughter from your neighbours. We kicked started dinner with the Mentaiko Udon Itame. Chewy udon noodles slathered with generous amounts of cod roe, were sitting on a bed of sweet and crunchy sliced cabbage, all sizzling in a teppan (hot plate).

When one thinks of Mentaiko with Udon/Pasta, an image of noodles swimming in a pinkish, creamy sauce base will come to mind. But it was different here as the dish arrived relatively drier. The udon was par-cooked and pan seared to an el dente  texture. The lack of cream allowed the mentaiko to take centre stage and it raised a simple dish of pan fried noodles to a whole new level. The cabbage provided a dose of fibre and crunch. Beautifully executed, I could not have asked for a better starter.

Top to Bottom: Grilled Shishamo, Buta Ninniku (Pork Belly with Garlic) and Tsukune (Minced Chicken Ball)

Tackling the yakimono (grilled items) next, we went with the above items just to have a small teaser of the chef's skills. The chef certainly wowed us with his mastery of the grill. Every single skewer arrived smoking hot, decently charred and properly seasoned. I particularly enjoyed the Tsukune as there was a nice crust encasing the soft and juicy interior of minced chicken meat. Drizzled with their in-house tare (sauce), it was an addictive and matching snack to go with more beer and whiskey.

Yakibuta (Grilled Pork Loin)

Though simply named, the Yakibuta was anything but. Three medallions of well-marbled pork loin, seasoned in shoyu and mirin and then grilled carefully to achieve a golden exterior, with that gorgeous rind of fat holding the meat together. The meat was slightly overcooked which rendered the meat a little dry, but that did not prevent me from enjoying these beautiful porcine nuggets to the very last bite.

Ten Soba (Assorted Tempura with Cold Buckwheat Noodles)

Although it may not be a shop dedicated to making their own noodles, I found the Soba here surprisingly better than other self-proclaimed Soba speciality shops. The noodles here had more bite and the fragrance of the buckwheat was more evident and easily picked up by my olfactory sensors. The tempura remained decently light and crispy despite being left to sit for a few minutes while we were happily slurping the Soba.

Kaki Age (Fried Oysters). $13.80 for 5 pieces.

Oyster connoisseurs may be cursing at me for even daring to eat these plump, juicy and creamy bivalves anything but raw. But I cannot deny the orgasmic pleasure I attained with each bite of the oysters. Hand battered with panko (japanese breadcrumbs) and dipped in hot oil, the oyster held its structure with the batter providing a shattering crunch before revealing the molten goodness inside.

Washed down with more beer, the dish was a true example of hearty izakaya fare. The pricing is pretty reasonable, considering each oyster costs less than $3.


I arrived with no expectations but I left impressed by the quality of the food prepared by the 2 chefs and the prompt and friendly service which is headed by a Japanese lady clad in a full kimono leading a team of our local hardworking aunties. The food served here is not overly complicated or pretentious. Just simple, soulful grub to go with more drinks amidst an informal and loud atmosphere occasionally punctuated by a sudden burst of laughter. I would even go so far as to say I feel I had a more enjoyable experience here compared to the more spacious, but more crowded Izakaya Nijumaru upstairs. With a smaller seating area, the kitchen and service teams can keep things tighter and ensure consistent quality control.

Shinjuku Izakaya Restaurant
#01-01 Cuppage Plaza
5 Koek Road
6734 8436/6238 6860

Operating Hours:
Mondays to Saturdays
Lunch: 1200 - 1430 (Last Order at 1415)
Dinner: 1800 - 0100 (Last Order at 2345)

Sundays and Public Holidays
Dinner: 1800 - 2300 (Last Order at 2230)

Nearest MRT Station: Somerset

Kaiho Sushi: Stick to the Aburi Sushi.

Hotate Mentaiyaki (Scallop grilled with Spicy Cod Roe Mayonnaise) $25

I love Cuppage Plaza despite its sleazy and seedy outlook, for it houses authentic Japanese Food and many local Japanese frequent the various joints here. With a good mix of Sushi-yas, Yakitori Restaurants and Izakayas, I can take my pick and select whatever I feel like having, and on this occasion, it was Sushi.

Taking a leap of faith, I ventured into Kaiho Sushi with a friend, but I decided not to go for Omakase and play it safe with a few ala carte items and a sushi set.

For starters, my friend ordered the Hotate Mentaiyaki and it arrived warm and moist. I tried a small teaspoon of it, and I was happy to find that the scallop was sweet and juicy and the Mentaiko was lip-smackingly savoury and creamy but did not overpower the shellfish. I particularly loved the bits that were charred which gave a nice contrast to the dish itself.

Aburi Salmon Nigiri ($5 a piece)

Aburi Sushi is always a delight to order and this was no different. The salmon was lightly cooked on the outside, but still retained its texture and flavour with the tsume (sauce that is put on sushi) bringing it up a notch.

Wagyu Aburi Nigiri ($15)

Blowtorched Wagyu on Sushi Rice. It's a no-brainer, impossible-to-fail sushi. The wagyu was smoky, juicy and evenly marbled and drizzled with a little tsume. If only it wasn't $15 a piece I would be popping this into my mouth freely.

Sushi Mori Set (9 pieces of assorted sushi.) $58
2 pieces Hirame (Flounder)
1 piece Otoro (Fatty Tuna Belly)
2 pieces Tai (Sea Bream/Snapper)
2 pieces Salmon
2 pieces Akagai (Red Clam)

Sadly, this was the disappointment of the entire meal.

The menu stated "9 pieces of assorted sushi". I naturally assumed it would mean 9 different kinds of sushi. But the chef gave me 2 pieces of 4 different types of sushi, with one single otoro. I could not help but feel shortchanged. The tai and hirame are not exactly the most expensive of fish, and I felt he could have given a better variety. The only saving graces were the Salmon and Otoro. The others were barely passable in my books. Suffice to say I was so unwilling to part with $58 for this set.

Oh, and a word of warning. By the 4th piece, the wasabi present in the nigiri was overwhelming and I started tearing, and this comes from a person with a high wasabi-spice tolerance level. This being my first time here, I did not know that the chef would be so liberal with the usage of his wasabi, so do tell him to go easy should you ever come here.

Kohada (Gizzard Shad) Nigiri. $9 a piece

Kohada is usually salted and cured in vinegar in order to kill bacteria and remove the "fishy smell" commonly found in fish of the Hikari Mono (shiny matter) category. To bring out the true flavour, it is up to the chef to determine how much to salt the fish, and how long he must leave it in the vinegar in order for the marinade to penetrate through the skin and flesh so that he can achieve the optimal quality.

Attempting to give Kaiho Sushi another shot at the Edomae Sushi, I went for the Kohada and I realized it was a mistake.

Once again, I was let down because the taste was simply negligible and the finish was not as long as I would have liked. The fact that the skin of the fish here was quite rough as well, served as another negative indicator.

Frankly, it is quite difficult to go wrong with Aburi Sushi, and many places offer it nowadays, even in the massive sushi chain shops. I was hoping that Kaiho Sushi would be able to offer at least passable Edomae sushi alongside its blowtorched specialities, and it was found wanting. Despite its competence in Aburi Sushi, I could probably get better value elsewhere. I left feeling discontented. My stomach had its fill, but my taste buds were still left hanging.

Singapore has come a long way in the quality and authenticity of the Sushi served here. But am I only able to get good Edomae Sushi in restaurants that charge up to $300 for Omakase? Is there no place here that can do decent, traditional sushi without burning a hole in my pocket? Alas, my search continues...

For Kaiho, my advice is just to stick to the Aburi Sushi, and maybe go for the cooked items if you are feeling adventurous.


Kaiho Sushi
#03-01 Cuppage Plaza
5 Koek Road
6738 1315

Operating Hours:
Tuesdays to Sundays
Lunch: 1200 - 1430
Dinner: 1830 - 2300
Closed on Mondays

Nearest MRT Station: Somerset

Izakaya Nijumaru: Japanese food for the Salary Men

Kitsune Udon $8

Coffee shops in Singapore boasts some of the cheapest and nicest tasting foods. It is also a place where people of the Baby Boomer and Generation X demographic will gather over bottles of beer and some finger food to chat and reminisce about the good old days for hours. The coffee shop is an establishment for the working class, families and for people who just want great food at affordable prices.

In Japan, an equivalent of a coffee shop would be an Izakaya, where salary men will gather in the evening after a hard day's work to relax over beers, snacks and food. Drinks like sake, shochu and beer are usually the mainstay of an Izakaya, but food also plays an important role in the shop where sounds of laughter, drunken banter and munching of food like yakitori, sashimi and yakisoba fill the atmosphere. 

Izakaya Nijumaru is a long time establishment at Cuppage Plaza, similar to Kazu Sumiyaki. Having been around for a decade or so, they occupy a quarter of the 2nd level of the seedy but relatively safe Cuppage Plaza. Providing reasonably priced Japanese cuisine to office workers of the neighbouring malls and offices is what keeps this place alive and crowded almost on a daily basis.

Katsu Curry Rice $12

From set meal bentos, and grilled items to sashimi and tempura, an Izakaya is a place where you can have a little bit of everything.

Heading there with friends on a Thursday night, one of them had the Katsu Curry Rice. Steamed rice smothered with a blanket of Japanese curry with generous amounts of diced potatoes and carrots make this a carbohydrate-laden, but hearty meal. Together with the pieces of pork cutlet, it would fill the most hungry of customers. I only wished that they had cut the katsu into strips instead of small pieces, but I guess the rationale behind it is so that you can just use a spoon to shovel it down quickly and efficiently without the need for a chopstick. Not glamorous but it definitely hits the spot.

Nijumaru Bento: Counter clockwise from bottom, Buta Kakuni (Braised pork belly), Assorted Tempura, Grilled Saba fish, Mixed Sashimi. $21

The Nijumaru Bento is a highly popular item due to the variety of food. For $21, you get  braised, fried, grilled and raw items in one bento box. The buta kakuni, braised till tender with a savoury and lip-smacking sauce made from shoyu and mirin is definitely the highlight for me. The tempura is light and crispy. The saba was de rigueur, sad to say. Sashimi was decently fresh and thickly cut. This is perfect for people who want a bit of everything. Items in the mixed sashimi and tempura may vary, but the Buta Kakuni and Saba are constants of this bento box.

Kawa (Chicken Skin) $7.50 for 4 skewers.

I just can't get enough of Kawa. Few things in life are better than chicken skin layered into a skewer and grilled till totally crispy. Seasoned with salt and a dash of lemon juice, it's an indulgence worthy for a king. Compared to Kazu, I would say that this version was a little less crispier and not as smoky. But for the price I pay, I can hardly complain. 

Butabara (Grilled Pork Belly)

Another one of my friends insisted on ordering a serving of the Butabara to share. Sinking my teeth into it, I was instantly hit by the aroma of the garlic bits that was marinated into the belly by the Chef. The juiciness of the meat and fat came after. Once again, I felt it could have been grilled just a little more to give it that burnt edge and crispiness.

Izakaya Nijumaru boasts homely Japanese food located in town, and it has and still continues to feed workers and salary men of all positions. I would highly recommend ordering the grilled items for sharing because they are cooked only by a single Japanese Chef, whose grill station is the only component of the kitchen visible to the public eye, whereas the rest of the food comes from the main kitchen located at the back of the restaurant. 

There have been complaints about service quality lapses. But my experience could not have been more different. Instant service of ocha upon taking our seats, providing a cold oshibori (wet towel) to freshen up, and to really give credit, they kindly provided an extra chair for a friend who joined us at the last minute despite the restaurant being at full capacity.

The waitresses are not smiley subservient Japanese ladies clad in kimonos, but our very own hardworking and often overlooked local aunties who are constantly running around to serve the customers. The place is always busy so there are times where you have to be patient and more tolerant. This is after all, an Izakaya and not a formal restaurant. The food will more than make up for it.

Getting seats here for a meal may be tricky especially during dinner times due to their strict policies. Reservations can be taken for up to a certain time only (tables will be held for a maximum 10 minutes), and all parties must be present before they let you in. Do not be surprised to find yourself queuing for at least 15 minutes (I was lucky on this occasion to queue for only 5 minutes). My advice would be to make sure all members of your party are punctual, or to get someone to start queuing earlier.

Izakaya Nijumaru is a suitable place for a casual and informal meal with friends and colleagues, serving up no-frills Japanese food at inexpensive prices.

Izakaya Nijumaru

#02-10 (Please note that they occupy several shop spaces.)

Cuppage Plaza

5 Koek Road

6235 6693

Operating Hours
Mon - Sat (Lunch)  : 1200 - 1400

Mon - Sat (Dinner) : 1830 - 2230

Sunday (Dinner)     : 1830- 2200

Nearest MRT Station: Somerset

Kazu Sumiyaki: Skewers for the Soul

Chef Kazu: Owner and Head Chef

Yakitori, Kushiyaki, Robatayaki, Sumiyaki...So many different terms and jargon that exist here that sometimes we get confused over what is what. So before I begin, let me set the record straight.

• Yakitori: Literally means "Grilled Chicken" (From the Japanese words "Yaki" which means 'Grill', and "Tori" which means "Chicken") Shops which sell Yakitori more often than not specifically specialize in the various parts of the chicken like the breast, thigh, cartilage, liver and gizzard, just to name a few.
• Robatayaki: Raw items which are usually displayed in front of the customer, which they then pick the items for the Chef to cook it in an open hearth grill, which is the key differentiating factor. More information about the definition can be found here.
• Kushiyaki: Originating from the Japanese words "Kushi" (Skewer) and "Yaki" (Grill).  Meats, vegetables, fish and other items are skewered and grilled over charcoal fire.
• Sumiyaki: Simply means "Charcoal Grill". A very wide spectrum of foods where Kushiyaki and Yakitori can be combined to fall within this category.

Most restaurants are generally not too uptight and strict about what they sell despite choosing to fall within a certain category, so consumers can get a wider variety of foods. The only common aspect of the four categories is that most of the items are grilled, but they also have other options like tempura and sashimi.


With that, now onto Kazu Sumiyaki proper.

Kazu Sumiyaki has been touted by some as "The Holy Grail of Sumiyaki" in Singapore. Located in the sleazy Cuppage Plaza (Don't worry. It's still safe and relatively quiet), a haven for the local Japanese population with its bars, massage parlours and authentic Japanese restaurants, both locals and Japanese people fill the restaurant to maximum capacity on a daily basis and it's almost impossible to get a seat by walk-in unless you are prepared to wait for 30 minutes and above. Demand for seats here are extremely high, and the crowds inside are a stark contrast to the otherwise empty mall outside. The place, according to the waitress, has been open for 20 years, and recently have just completed a renovation of their premises.

With such an accolade bestowed on them and the crowds which speak for themselves, I wasted no time in making my due reservation and got seats at the counter in order to watch the Chef in action. With raised expectations, I was worried that the food might not make the mark, But how wrong I was.

Shirako Ponzu (Milt/Sperm of Cod topped with Ponzu Sauce and radish)

Shirako. You either love it or hate it. I am glad to say that having conquered the psychological barrier of the idea of eating fish sperm a few years back, I now appreciate it for its creamy, smooth texture and the depth in flavour. Kazu did not disappoint. The milt was exactly what I expected it to be, save for a few veiny slivers. The ponzu sauce, citrusy and refreshing brought an important balance to qualify this as a wonderful starter for the meal.

Hotate Enoki Batayaki (Grilled whole Scallop with Enoki Mushrooms and Butter & Cheese Sauce)

Relatively heavy for a 2nd starter but not cloyingly so, their grilled scallop was fresh and the mushrooms with the sauce added a burst of umami, with the wedge of yuzu playing the role of cutting through the richness. Served warm, this was sublime.

Grilled Lamb Rack (Sea salt on the side)

A rather unusual start to the evening, our Sumiyaki adventure began with a bang. Take a rack of lamb, seasoned with salt and pepper, and grilled in the hands of a master, the lamb was juicy, smoky with none of that gamey smell and taste at all. This is a must order.

Bacon Kaki Yaki (Grilled Oyster wrapped in Bacon)

Oyster and Bacon with salt and pepper. It's a natural combination. A wonderful surf and turf skewer that gave me the best of both worlds. One piece of the oyster with bacon was about the size of a fishball, and the oyster was just waiting to ooze out all the umami goodness.

Tomato Bacon Yaki (Grilled Japanese tomato wrapped in Bacon)

Take a naturally sweet Japanese tomato, wrap it around in bacon (again) and grilled it over a carefully tended charcoal fire. Word of advice: Allow some time for it to cool, because when I ate it immediately, the tomato spurted hot scalding juices. But 3rd degree burns in my mouth aside, this was a wonderfully delightful item.

Kawa (Chicken Skin)

Chicken Skin. This is a no-brainer, must order dish at any respectable Kushiyaki/Sumiyaki establishment. Grilling the skin till all the fats have completely rendered out, it becomes totally crispy and savoury. Add a little more salt to your liking, and this is heaven in a stick. Few things in life are better. For Kazu, the Chef left this dish unseasoned so do not be afraid to add your own salt.

Foie Gras

Foie Gras on a stick. Why hasn't anyone thought of this before? Creamy, rich without the cumbersome veins usually present in lower grades of Foie Gras. At $6.50 a stick, this is a pretty good steal.

From left: 2 sticks of Buta Bara (Grilled Pork Belly) and 2 sticks of Tontoro (Fattier cut of pork belly)

You can't really go wrong with pork belly grilled with salt. This was slightly crispy, with a firm bite, albeit a little oily.

Hotate and Ebi Bacon Negi Yaki (Grilled scallop and Prawn wrapped with Bacon and leek)

This was a very popular dish which featured fresh seafood with once again, bacon and a leek which was grilled to perfection. The differing flavours and textures nicely interplayed with each other.

Tontoro Ringo (Fattier Cut of Pork Belly with Sliced Apples)

This is a dish unique to Kazu. To add some dimension to the sinful pork, the Chef includes sliced apples. When grilled, sugars inside the apples will start to caramelize and the juices from the apple will start to flow onto the pork and coat it. This was the dish I was looking forward to, and Kazu delivered duly.

Gyu Tan (Beef Tongue)

The beef tongue from Kazu possessed all the elements of a good beef with its deep and full bodied flavour. Another must-order especially for lovers of Beef Tongue

Other beef options not shown here include the US, Australian, and the Jo (Japanese) Wagyu.
I had the US and Jo Wagyu. Depending on your tolerance of beef marbling, the US Wagyu was decently tender and beefy with more bite, whereas the Jo Wagyu just burst with juices with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. 

Iberico Pork Rib

Concluding our meat massacre was the Iberico pork rib, a seasonal special item. It was grilled nicely but there wasn't really a unique aspect of it. The price is about $11 a rib so I would skip this and order something else instead. Good for a first time if you simply must have ribs, but otherwise, your money can be better spent on other items.

Yakiimo (Grilled Sweet Potato from Hokkaido. Butter used is also Hokkaido Butter)

While searching online, many proclaimed this as the best sweet potato they have ever tasted and labelled this as a "die-die-must-try item". It was very, very well executed but sadly I am not a sweet potato fan so I was unable to enjoy it as much as other Yakiimo fanatics. That said, I still finished it, skin and all. The Yakiimo here was spoon-tender, an effect usually only achievable by boiling instead of grilling, which really showcases the skills of the Chef. The specially imported Hokkaido butter was the key catalyst in bringing the Yakiimo to a whole new level. Sweet Potato lovers should not miss out on this at all.


*If you wish to have the Yakiimo, order it first before the rest of your dishes because it takes 1 hour to prepare.

Service was a little iffy at the start because I had booked my slot way in advance and upon arrival, I was made to wait for about 10 minutes before I was shown to a table, and waiting a further 10 minutes before I was allowed to move to counter seating where I originally requested. (Which was much more spacious, and with a view of how the food was prepared). But as the meal went on, the staff managed to cope better and pay more attention to the guests, occasionally putting in their recommendations and checking on us more frequently. Food arrived promptly and were at least warm, if not piping hot. The staff were courteous, polite and cheery. The occasional lack of attention and lapses of service is simply Kazu being a victim of its own fame, and shortage of manpower which is very common in the F&B industry.

Overall, Kazu Sumiyaki was simply an experience to behold. It encompassed everything essential about Japanese cuisine. Fresh items, cooked and seasoned simply in the hands of a master and keeping the customers coming every day. With a glass of Sapporo beer, this was a fantastic way to end a hectic day with just very expertly grilled, sinful but oh-so- wonderful skewered meats and dishes, which really reminded me of the time I went to a Yakitori bar in Tokyo and saw blue and white collars concluding an honest day's work with craft beers, great food and drunked chatters of laughter.

As I type this, I am still thinking fervently of the food, and I am already looking forward to my next trip there. Kazu Sumiyaki rewards the patience of their guests with flavourful grilled items. As the back of the staffs' T-Shirts in Kanji indicate: One Skewer to reach the Soul, they certainly touched mine and provided a very complete Japanese experience, replicating a scene in Tokyo which triggered so many happy memories of the times I spent in Japan.

This was my first visit, and definitely the first of many more to come.

Kazu Sumiyaki
#04-05, Cuppage Plaza

5 Koek Road

Open Daily:
1800 - 2200

Tel: 6734 2492

Reservations are highly recommended.