Shinjuku Izakaya: Eat, Drink and be Merry.

Mentaiko Udon Itame. Pan Fried Udon Noodles with Cod Roe on Hot Plate. $16

As much as I love sushi, I would be lying if I said I could eat it every day. But I can have izakaya everyday.

For those not in the know, an Izakaya (居酒屋) is a place for drinks and bites, a concept similar to tapas bars in Spain. People head down after office hours to unwind over overflowing glasses of sake, beers and whiskies. But of course, the food plays a pivotal role in the overall experience too. You can find literally anything; from sashimi to yakitori and noodle dishes to go along with your beverage of choice.

Having been to its more commercially successful cousin/competitor Izakaya Nijumaru located 3 levels above, I was curious to explore the quieter and smaller Shinjuku Izakaya located at the first level of Cuppage Plaza.

The place was what I envisioned it to be: Cosy, narrow sitting with a cacophony of chatter and laughter from your neighbours. We kicked started dinner with the Mentaiko Udon Itame. Chewy udon noodles slathered with generous amounts of cod roe, were sitting on a bed of sweet and crunchy sliced cabbage, all sizzling in a teppan (hot plate).

When one thinks of Mentaiko with Udon/Pasta, an image of noodles swimming in a pinkish, creamy sauce base will come to mind. But it was different here as the dish arrived relatively drier. The udon was par-cooked and pan seared to an el dente  texture. The lack of cream allowed the mentaiko to take centre stage and it raised a simple dish of pan fried noodles to a whole new level. The cabbage provided a dose of fibre and crunch. Beautifully executed, I could not have asked for a better starter.

Top to Bottom: Grilled Shishamo, Buta Ninniku (Pork Belly with Garlic) and Tsukune (Minced Chicken Ball)

Tackling the yakimono (grilled items) next, we went with the above items just to have a small teaser of the chef's skills. The chef certainly wowed us with his mastery of the grill. Every single skewer arrived smoking hot, decently charred and properly seasoned. I particularly enjoyed the Tsukune as there was a nice crust encasing the soft and juicy interior of minced chicken meat. Drizzled with their in-house tare (sauce), it was an addictive and matching snack to go with more beer and whiskey.

Yakibuta (Grilled Pork Loin)

Though simply named, the Yakibuta was anything but. Three medallions of well-marbled pork loin, seasoned in shoyu and mirin and then grilled carefully to achieve a golden exterior, with that gorgeous rind of fat holding the meat together. The meat was slightly overcooked which rendered the meat a little dry, but that did not prevent me from enjoying these beautiful porcine nuggets to the very last bite.

Ten Soba (Assorted Tempura with Cold Buckwheat Noodles)

Although it may not be a shop dedicated to making their own noodles, I found the Soba here surprisingly better than other self-proclaimed Soba speciality shops. The noodles here had more bite and the fragrance of the buckwheat was more evident and easily picked up by my olfactory sensors. The tempura remained decently light and crispy despite being left to sit for a few minutes while we were happily slurping the Soba.

Kaki Age (Fried Oysters). $13.80 for 5 pieces.

Oyster connoisseurs may be cursing at me for even daring to eat these plump, juicy and creamy bivalves anything but raw. But I cannot deny the orgasmic pleasure I attained with each bite of the oysters. Hand battered with panko (japanese breadcrumbs) and dipped in hot oil, the oyster held its structure with the batter providing a shattering crunch before revealing the molten goodness inside.

Washed down with more beer, the dish was a true example of hearty izakaya fare. The pricing is pretty reasonable, considering each oyster costs less than $3.


I arrived with no expectations but I left impressed by the quality of the food prepared by the 2 chefs and the prompt and friendly service which is headed by a Japanese lady clad in a full kimono leading a team of our local hardworking aunties. The food served here is not overly complicated or pretentious. Just simple, soulful grub to go with more drinks amidst an informal and loud atmosphere occasionally punctuated by a sudden burst of laughter. I would even go so far as to say I feel I had a more enjoyable experience here compared to the more spacious, but more crowded Izakaya Nijumaru upstairs. With a smaller seating area, the kitchen and service teams can keep things tighter and ensure consistent quality control.

Shinjuku Izakaya Restaurant
#01-01 Cuppage Plaza
5 Koek Road
6734 8436/6238 6860

Operating Hours:
Mondays to Saturdays
Lunch: 1200 - 1430 (Last Order at 1415)
Dinner: 1800 - 0100 (Last Order at 2345)

Sundays and Public Holidays
Dinner: 1800 - 2300 (Last Order at 2230)

Nearest MRT Station: Somerset

Yakitori Uma: Quaint and Elusive Grub

Negima (Grilled Chicken with Leek)

Often, great food are sometimes elusive and difficult to hunt down. But with a little effort and networking, it rewards the adventurous and the initiated with tastes not found elsewhere.

In situations like these, it is always wise to enlist the help of one who is well-versed and in the know of such places. Enter in a friend who has spent years studying and working in Japan and in Singapore, where he frequently brings his Japanese colleagues and clients alike to places such as Yakitori Uma for a reminiscent taste of home.

However, what struck me out as unique was that the size of the restaurant was spacious and comfortable, as compared to the normally assumed tight and squeezy "hole-in-the-walls" of authentic Japanese establishments. With multiple booths and a large circular counter taking centre stage, it is a suitable place for large group gatherings and for families to chill and relax over beer and skewers.

Quail Eggs Kushikatsu

Leaving the ordering up to my friend who's a regular, we started off with the Negima (Grilled Chicken with Leek) and the Quail Eggs skewers. The negima was just as I had envisioned it to be: Tender and juicy, with a crispy charred exterior. The leek was smoky and fragrant without the unpleasant sharpness that can happen when it is not grilled properly.

Tsukune (Minced Chicken)

Always a firm favourite here, I really cannot think of any reason why people would dislike a safe and easy-eating option such as minced chicken. Seasoned with a little tare (sauce) and salt, it was scrumptious and comfort food at its best, especially when paired with a frozen glass of Sapporo beer.

Nankotsu Karaage (Fried Chicken Cartilage Skewers)

Deciding to stray away from the usual trodden paths and in search of the uncommon, we tried the nankotsu, (yakitori shop terminology for 'chicken cartilage'). It is not exactly a must-have and a favourite item, but the crunchy (almost too crunchy) texture and liberal seasoning made for some good jaw exercises and chewing, all washed down with more beer.

Grilled Tofu with Daikon and Ginger

For the vegetable options, we went for the grilled tofu. Silken, tender tofu topped with a generous dose of daikon and ginger. And when I say generous, the ginger proved to be a little too much as I started to feel the burn which I dislike. But that said, the sauce that came with it gave it a lift and hint of saltiness which was much needed.


Simple and straightforward, it is an authentic place with a native Japanese chef in charge of the electric grill serving up izakaya style grub for the salarymen and people looking to wind down an honest day's work.

Yakitori Uma
#01-26/27/28
Orchard Plaza
150 Orchard Road

6734 8368

Operating Hours:
Open from Mondays to Saturdays.
Lunch: 12pm to 2pm
Dinner: 6pm to Midnight

Closed on Sundays

Nearest MRT Station: Orchard

Izakaya Nijumaru: Japanese food for the Salary Men

Kitsune Udon $8

Coffee shops in Singapore boasts some of the cheapest and nicest tasting foods. It is also a place where people of the Baby Boomer and Generation X demographic will gather over bottles of beer and some finger food to chat and reminisce about the good old days for hours. The coffee shop is an establishment for the working class, families and for people who just want great food at affordable prices.

In Japan, an equivalent of a coffee shop would be an Izakaya, where salary men will gather in the evening after a hard day's work to relax over beers, snacks and food. Drinks like sake, shochu and beer are usually the mainstay of an Izakaya, but food also plays an important role in the shop where sounds of laughter, drunken banter and munching of food like yakitori, sashimi and yakisoba fill the atmosphere. 

Izakaya Nijumaru is a long time establishment at Cuppage Plaza, similar to Kazu Sumiyaki. Having been around for a decade or so, they occupy a quarter of the 2nd level of the seedy but relatively safe Cuppage Plaza. Providing reasonably priced Japanese cuisine to office workers of the neighbouring malls and offices is what keeps this place alive and crowded almost on a daily basis.

Katsu Curry Rice $12

From set meal bentos, and grilled items to sashimi and tempura, an Izakaya is a place where you can have a little bit of everything.

Heading there with friends on a Thursday night, one of them had the Katsu Curry Rice. Steamed rice smothered with a blanket of Japanese curry with generous amounts of diced potatoes and carrots make this a carbohydrate-laden, but hearty meal. Together with the pieces of pork cutlet, it would fill the most hungry of customers. I only wished that they had cut the katsu into strips instead of small pieces, but I guess the rationale behind it is so that you can just use a spoon to shovel it down quickly and efficiently without the need for a chopstick. Not glamorous but it definitely hits the spot.

Nijumaru Bento: Counter clockwise from bottom, Buta Kakuni (Braised pork belly), Assorted Tempura, Grilled Saba fish, Mixed Sashimi. $21

The Nijumaru Bento is a highly popular item due to the variety of food. For $21, you get  braised, fried, grilled and raw items in one bento box. The buta kakuni, braised till tender with a savoury and lip-smacking sauce made from shoyu and mirin is definitely the highlight for me. The tempura is light and crispy. The saba was de rigueur, sad to say. Sashimi was decently fresh and thickly cut. This is perfect for people who want a bit of everything. Items in the mixed sashimi and tempura may vary, but the Buta Kakuni and Saba are constants of this bento box.

Kawa (Chicken Skin) $7.50 for 4 skewers.

I just can't get enough of Kawa. Few things in life are better than chicken skin layered into a skewer and grilled till totally crispy. Seasoned with salt and a dash of lemon juice, it's an indulgence worthy for a king. Compared to Kazu, I would say that this version was a little less crispier and not as smoky. But for the price I pay, I can hardly complain. 

Butabara (Grilled Pork Belly)

Another one of my friends insisted on ordering a serving of the Butabara to share. Sinking my teeth into it, I was instantly hit by the aroma of the garlic bits that was marinated into the belly by the Chef. The juiciness of the meat and fat came after. Once again, I felt it could have been grilled just a little more to give it that burnt edge and crispiness.

Izakaya Nijumaru boasts homely Japanese food located in town, and it has and still continues to feed workers and salary men of all positions. I would highly recommend ordering the grilled items for sharing because they are cooked only by a single Japanese Chef, whose grill station is the only component of the kitchen visible to the public eye, whereas the rest of the food comes from the main kitchen located at the back of the restaurant. 

There have been complaints about service quality lapses. But my experience could not have been more different. Instant service of ocha upon taking our seats, providing a cold oshibori (wet towel) to freshen up, and to really give credit, they kindly provided an extra chair for a friend who joined us at the last minute despite the restaurant being at full capacity.

The waitresses are not smiley subservient Japanese ladies clad in kimonos, but our very own hardworking and often overlooked local aunties who are constantly running around to serve the customers. The place is always busy so there are times where you have to be patient and more tolerant. This is after all, an Izakaya and not a formal restaurant. The food will more than make up for it.

Getting seats here for a meal may be tricky especially during dinner times due to their strict policies. Reservations can be taken for up to a certain time only (tables will be held for a maximum 10 minutes), and all parties must be present before they let you in. Do not be surprised to find yourself queuing for at least 15 minutes (I was lucky on this occasion to queue for only 5 minutes). My advice would be to make sure all members of your party are punctual, or to get someone to start queuing earlier.

Izakaya Nijumaru is a suitable place for a casual and informal meal with friends and colleagues, serving up no-frills Japanese food at inexpensive prices.

Izakaya Nijumaru

#02-10 (Please note that they occupy several shop spaces.)

Cuppage Plaza

5 Koek Road

6235 6693

Operating Hours
Mon - Sat (Lunch)  : 1200 - 1400

Mon - Sat (Dinner) : 1830 - 2230

Sunday (Dinner)     : 1830- 2200

Nearest MRT Station: Somerset