Shinji By Kanesaka. The Epitome of Edomae

Sawara (Spanish Mackerel)

I could not help it.

I was so enamoured of my last visit to Shinji, I found myself making reservations to re-live the wonder and magic of such an illustrious institution and proud bastion of Japan's oldest food traditions. Armed with a little extra cash from the Chinese New Year ang pows, my dining companions and I took our seats at the smooth and flawless hinoki wood counter and embraced the serenity, silence and anticipation of the symphony of sushi that was to follow.

Shima Aji (Striped Jack)

The 12 piece "Tsuki" (月) lunch set commenced with the usual shiromi dane suspects. The sawara and shima aji were on form, awakening my taste buds with their light, clean, and  refreshing nature. Freshness is paramount for fish of this category in order that full justice can be done to them, and their flavours brought out fully. Needless to say, the skillful and experienced itamae delivered duly.

Sayori (Half-beak/Needlefish)

I was beyond delighted to know that I would have the rare opportunity to partake in such a rare tane on this visit. Sayori is best served in spring, and my maiden experience was one to remember fondly. The texture is slightly firmer but not chewy. The flavour profile is again similar to the other fish like flounder and the striped jack.

Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)

I met my old, velvety, crimson friend laying so seductively on a bed of perfectly seasoned shari. The chutoro once again passed with flying colours with its deep and full bodied flavour, with the moderate streaks of marbling providing a touch of richness. 

Shimofuri Otoro (Fatty Tuna Belly with "Snow frost Marbling"

The term "Shimofuri" refers to the marbling pattern of maguro that largely resembles a "snow-frost" pattern, and is usually found on the premium cuts like the 'hoho' (cheek) and 'noten' (head) parts of the fish itself. It is almost impossible to chew on the otoro at all since the fish was almost melting the moment the heat from the tongue permeated through the tuna belly. Expertly moulded with top quality Japanese rice, this is indulgence at its finest.

Aji (Horse Mackerel)

Holding its own against the more sinful and easy to enjoy counterparts, the Aji itself was a force to be reckoned with. It may not boast the creamy and buttery characters of the chutoro and otoro, but what it lacks in texture, it more than compensates in flavour. The Aji is the most prized fish of its category (hikari mono or 'shiny fish'), and it may give off an unpleasant fishy odour that may threaten to upset the progression of sushi if not handled well. But we were to have none of that here in Shinji, testament to the finesse and mastery of the chefs.

Katsuo/Bonito (Skipjack)

We are familiar with the bonito fish in the form of flakes that we sprinkle over our takoyaki (grilled octopus balls), but to taste the skipjack in its raw form is always a treat. I was lucky enough to have it back in Osaka's Koyoshi Sushi, and I was glad to have it here again in Shinji. The aroma undoubtedly conforms to the flavour of the bonito flakes which will trigger memories. But the taste and texture itself is almost similar to the lean tuna. This is perhaps the only other fish belonging to the akami dane (red-flesh fish) category aside from tuna.

Hokkaido Uni (Sea Urchin)

There were many audible "oohs" and "ahhs" resounding from my party as the chef removed this box of golden, luscious uni. A sushi topping never to be missed under any circumstances, we waited eagerly as our chef moulded the gunkan for us.

Uni Gunkan

Uni. You either love it or hate it, and I consider myself blessed to be able to enjoy this delicacy.
Bad uni can have the consistency of slime and a taste similar to wastage found in sewerage systems, which may explain why people may shun away from such an indulgent ingredient. Good uni like the one here is the complete antithesis of it. Creamy, buttery and ever so seductive, it took all of my self-control to not ask for a second piece.

 

Negitoro (Minced Tuna Belly with sliced Japanese leek)

Nearing the end of our sushi course, the chef wowed us with a display of his knife skills as he minced up some tuna belly and expertly butterflied and cut up white Japanese leek and folded it into the mixture before topping it on the rice. The sushi was juicy with a slight sweet and sharp underlying tones which balanced the fatty tuna nicely.

Anago (Conger eel)

Almost always used as the grand finale, a piece of conger eel which has been boiled to a meltingly tender texture under the watchful eyes of the chef acts as the closure to the meal. The anago was clean, creamy and the sauce elevated the sushi to a whole new level.

Tamago

So, so deceptively simple...yet one taste of the quintessential tamago is enough for sushi connoisseurs to gauge the chef's skills. I am certainly no expert, but suffice to say I enjoyed every single last nibble of the fragrant, subtly sweet and custard-like texture of the tamago.

Warabi Mochi

Warabi Mochi is a jelly-like cake (similar to our local "muah chee") made from broken starch and dipped in kinao (sweetened and toasted soybean flour) and then drizzled with some palm sugar syrup. Slightly nuttier than the common mochi, the dessert provided a lasting sweet ending to the meal...

Or did it?

Uni Rice. Sushi rice mixed with Sea Urchin, topped with ikura and Negitoro

About two-thirds into my set lunch, I spied a couple in the same room who seemed to be extremely occupied digging their way into a small bowl. Upon further enquiry with the chef who checked with us on any last orders, I confirmed my suspicions, threw caution to the wind and added one last item.

Uni, Otoro and Ikura. Some might dub these as the Holy Trinity of indulgences in the world of Edomae Sushi. When all three unite and come together, the results are divine, sublime and absolutely mind blowing. Words are simply unable to do sufficient justice to such a bowl fit for the gods.

The chef first scoops up some shari onto a bowl, places some uni into it and mixes the rice evenly so that every single grain is coated with that golden goodness. He then minces some otoro and leek and places it on top, and 2 generous scoops of ikura then flank the bowl, and the trinity is complete.

I've been asked before "What would your last meal be?". I've searched and pondered deeply for years, constantly looking for a single dish that would let me go out with a bang. At long last, I have found it, and I am glad to be alive to tell the tale. A big bowl of Uni, Otoro and Ikura would be a fitting end.

Thinking to myself that nothing could top my virgin visit to Shinji, I was proven utterly wrong this time. The food, service and ambience are stellar and second to none. I highly doubt any other sushi-ya will be able to displace Shinji, save for maybe Jiro or Saito in Japan itself.

A meal at Shinji by Kanesaka is not just a dining experience; it is a spiritual encounter between you, the sushi and the chef.

Shinji by Kanesaka

#02-20, Raffles Hotel

1 Beach Road (Via Seah Street Lobby)

Singapore 189673

Lunch Hours: 12pm to 3 pm

Dinner Hours: 6.00pm to 10.30pm

Closed on Sundays.

Nearest MRT Station: City Hall

Link to their website.

Hakumai Sushi and Omakase: Great Sushi, Great Value.

Sashimi Platter: Salmon, Maguro, Botan Ebi, Swordfish, Sawara, Herring Roe, Torigai.

What happens when you get a craving for some really good sushi and you do not want your typical chain restaurants, but you are unwilling to spend hundreds of dollars for an Omakase?

You go to Hakumai, that's what.

Much as I would like to do a full Omakase with the works and extras, there are just times when the heart is willing, but the wallet says otherwise. That said, at $68.80++, Chef Gary has truly given me my money's worth, and has consistently maintained his standards, very much like my last visit.

Starting with a Sashimi Platter, each fish and ingredient was fresh and meticulously sliced and presented to me.

Truffle Chawanmushi with Prawn and Enoki Mushrooms.

I could not help but be taken aback by Gary's new take on his Chawanmushi. Piping hot egg custard swimming in a thick, strong dashi broth drizzled generously with truffle oil. With a little yuzu to cut through the richness and strength, this is comfort food on a whole new level.

Tai-kama Shioyaki: Salt-grilled Snapper Cheek

The hot food of Hakumai is not to be understated too. The chef showcases his mastery of the grill by simply salting the cheek of the Snapper and grilling it till the skin is crispy and slightly charred, and the flesh inside is flaky, moist and juicy. Throw your dining etiquette out of the window (or counter) and get your hands dirty!

Sushi Platter from top to bottom: Ikura gunkan, Aburi Scallop with Mentaiko, Aburi Mekajiki topped with yuzu pepper, Salmon and Maguro topped with bonito flakes.

The sushi today was as excellent as before. Generous slices of fish sitting snugly on a bed of Niigata sushi rice, with the blow-torching process melting the oils of the fish and giving it a nice smoky flavour.

Aburi Botan Ebi with Foie Gras (Additional Order: $30 for 2 pieces)

But no trip to Hakumai can ever be complete without their signature sushi: The blowtorched botan prawn topped with goose liver. This is truly an orgasmic experience where you need to close your eyes and fully appreciate the creamy, smoky, rich and freshness of each individual component. The prawn and goose liver go together like coffee and milk. Do not ever leave Hakumai without having this.

Chef Gary Ng

I can't recall a time where I was disappointed by Gary-san and his team. Service is prompt and friendly, and Gary's skills as seen and tasted in the sushi he makes, coupled with his jovial and cheerful nature gives me a relaxed and lively atmosphere for me to dine in. Hakumai is able to cater to different price ranges so it really gives customers more options and choice, and I'm glad to say the restaurant does not compromise on quality or quantity even if you spend on the less expensive items or set menus.

A place for all occasions, Hakumai gives you wonderful sushi without burning a hole in your pockets.

Hakumai Sushi & Omakase
#01-50A International Plaza
10 Anson Road
Singapore 079903
Contact No: +65 6224 4790

Operating hours:
Closed on Sundays
Lunch: 11.30am to 3.00pm
Dinner: 6.00pm to 10.30pm
(Last Orders are 45 minutes before closing)

Nearest MRT Station: Tanjong Pagar

5 Places to have Omakase in Singapore

Kama-Otoro Nigiri at Hashida Sushi

Let’s face it. We Singaporeans love Japanese cuisine and those who are serious about it will pay hundreds of dollars for an Omakase meal without blinking an eye. Be it for a special occasion or to simply pamper ourselves, there is nothing like sitting at a Sushi counter and having a chef who has trained for years to personally mould sushi right in front of us before we pop the little orgasm bombs that give us a glimpse of what heaven can taste like.

The term “Omakase” means “to entrust”. Simply put, you sit down at the counter and the chef will serve you a menu course-by-course (similar to a degustation) featuring the restaurant’s signature items or specials of the day. Although an Omakase can feature appetizers and side dishes, it is the Sushi that takes centre stage. A typical Omakase costs about $150, but depending on your appetite and wallet, it can go up to as high as $300 so do not be afraid to enquire on the prices first.

With many establishments available here in Singapore, the choices and possibilities are endless. So here are 5 places to go for an Omakase.

Otoro Nigiri

1)         Shinji by Kanesaka

With 2 branches here in the Raffles Hotel and St Regis Singapore, “Shinji by Kanesaka” is the eponymous overseas extension of the original Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo, Japan. Aside from the unquestionable quality of the food which is simply sublime, the good folks here pay great attention to the minute details like the material of the sushi counter (which is made from prized ‘hinoki’ or cypress wood), the wares used for the preparation of their sushi, and the ambience itself to ensure a complete experience. Rumour has it that a Japanese diner was reduced to tears after he laid his hands on the cypress wood sushi counter, saying that it reminded him so much of his home which he badly missed.
It feels almost ritualistic dining in here, and the whole atmosphere can feel quite formal if not for the friendly and jovial chefs whose life mission is to ensure that you are served only the best of what they have to offer.

Shinji By Kanesaka
#02-20 Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road
http://www.shinjibykanesaka.com/raffles/index.html

Click here for the full post.

 

Uni Gunkan

2)         Nogawa Japanese Restaurant

This is undeniably the pioneer restaurant for sushi and Omakase in Singapore. The place was opened in 1978 and was formerly run by Sushi Master Yoshio Nogawa (who has since returned to Tokyo). Nogawa is still often regarded as the forefather of Japanese Cuisine in Singapore, and he took in many students who went on to become specialists in their own right, most notably Chef Ronnie Chia of Tatsuya. Step into his restaurant and you will find many pictures showing Nogawa-san standing beside prominent political figures like Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew and former President S R Nathan. But aside from the fame, this is the place for the die-hard traditionalists and purists of Edomae Sushi.

Nogawa Japanese Restaurant
#03-25 Concorde Hotel
100 Orchard Road

http://www.sushinogawa.com.sg/e-index.php

 

Aburi Botan Ebi with Foie Gras Nigiri

3)         Hakumai Sushi & Omakase

Look no further than Hakumai Sushi and Omakase if you seek a modern twist to your sushi. Owner Chef Gary Ng (also a student of Master Nogawa) has finally settled down at his new restaurant located in International Plaza after moving from his previous places at Hinoki and Kome. The signature of Hakumai lies in their “Aburi” or “blowtorched” sushi.  It brings the sushi to a whole new level with a process of experimentation that yield results such as the “Aburi Botan Ebi and Foie Gras” sushi shown above. It is basically a large botan ebi which is first butterflied and topped with a sexy piece of goose liver and blowtorched to give off a smoky aroma. The freshness of the prawn together with the creamily sinful foie gras is guaranteed to make anyone fall in love with Aburi Sushi. This is just one of the many more unique Sushi here at Hakumai and the possibilities are only limited by the creativity of the chefs here.

Hakumai Sushi & Omakase
#01-50A International Plaza
10 Anson Road

http://www.hakumai.com.sg/

Click here for the full post.

Uni and Ikura mini donburi

4)         Hashida Sushi

Another heavyweight Japanese import from Tokyo,  Hashida Sushi is run by the 35-year old Kenjiro “Hatch” Hashida, son of Master Tokio Hashida. Chef “Hatch”, a graduate of the prestigious ‘Tsuji Culinary Institute’, makes frequent trips between Singapore and Japan to ensure operations and supplies are smooth and consistent in order that Hashida delivers top end sushi to its guests.
Hashida Sushi takes exceptional pride in the quality of their tuna, importing a whole fish that can weigh up to a 100 kilograms at a time. Needless to say, their otoro (Tuna belly) sushi is a must-try here. If you are feeling indulgent, the beverage list here features high end sake, Champagnes and vintage wines to go along with your Omakase.

Hashida Sushi
#02-37 Mandarin Gallery
333A Orchard Road

http://hashida.com.sg/index.html

Click here for the full post

"Hamburg Sushi".
 Flying Fish Roe, Winter Bamboo shoot, Salmon, Tuna, and Surf Clam Sushi. 

5)         Meii Sushi

Unlike the previous restaurants which are more famous, Meii takes on a more quaint and exclusive demeanour. The only marketing tool employed here is word of mouth, and it was not really featured in online articles until recently. This is not your typical sushi joint because the sushi here is rustic, unpretentious and sometimes a little unglamorous. Basically, the only aspect not compromised here is the taste and quality of their products and Chef Hong loves to cut his fish into large, thick slices so when you sink your teeth into that highly marbled Otoro, the flavours are amplified dramatically, and if you are not careful you might just let out a moan or a sigh of pure ecstasy. Chef Hong here does take a break from tradition once in a while and comes up with unusual creations for his regular customers like the “Hamburger Sushi” shown above. It features different types of fish and other ingredients all in one nigiri, and the taste is simply unimaginable and indescribable. You have to try it for yourself.

A note of caution: Chef Hong is a man who shuns away from the limelight and loves his privacy in his humble abode. He has chased people away before who were being unreasonable and over demanding. So do reserve a seat in advance, inform him of your dietary restrictions beforehand, and ask for permission before you take photos. Just follow these rules and you'll be treated to a spectacular array of overflowing sushi.

Meii Sushi
#02-54 International Plaza
6220 3346

Click here for the full post.

Final Notes

An Omakase is truly the best way to enjoy Japanese cuisine at its finest because it showcases the skills and techniques of the Chef and it also features seasonal produce that are only available in certain periods of the year. The next time you have extra cash, go to any of these 5 restaurants for an unforgettable Omakase experience.

Koyoshi Sushi: The Cosy, Unpretentious Hole in the Wall (Osaka Series Part 6/6)

Hirame (Flounder)

Whenever I go for overseas trips, I always make it a point to do my homework and properly research the various places I can get good grub in the country I am visiting. One of my favourite sources is Anthony Bourdain, whom I see as someone of a "Rock Star" figure in the world of Food and Beverage. He, having been to Japan multiple times, was able to sample the wondrous culinary concoctions of many different places and regions, and one of them is the shop I am featuring today: Koyoshi Sushi.

Imagine walking down a small triangular alleyway, and you come across a sushi shop smaller than your own bedroom with an aged couple inside happily carrying on their work. The counter is full and you hear conversations of laughter, joy and happiness with customers chatting with the chef and his wife like old family friends. This is the spirit of Koyoshi. A cosy, friendly and welcoming environment.

However, a tiny shop space does pose its own problems, especially for a person of my frame. At 190cm, I had to sit at a 45 degree angle because my knees were already flushed against the counter wall, and I was close, way too close for comfort to my neighbours and I had to be constantly mindful of my elbows lest I swing them wildly and hit the other guests. Koyoshi Sushi is THE definition of a tiny shop space. You have been warned. ;)

But personal space issues aside, I was happy to brave an hour of uncomfortable sitting to sample the sushi of Mr and Mrs Yano. Yano-san has been making sushi for nearly all of his life. But instead of choosing to walk the path of owning a full-service restaurant and charging hundreds of dollars for an omakase, he has chosen his own little humble space; serving office workers, old couples and tourists all under one roof.

Starting off with the flounder, the light-tasting fish teased and awakened my tastebuds and heightened my excitement further of what's to come.

Katsuo (Bonito Fish)

Most of us have come across Bonito in the form of flakes that we put on our Takoyaki (Grilled Octopus Balls) and Okonomiyaki. But what about the fish itself? I was curious to taste the Katsuo in sushi/sashimi form. The texture is very much like Tuna (Tuna and Katsuo both belong to the "Akami Dane", or red-flesh fish topping category), but the taste is unmistakably very much like the flakes that we eat as condiments. Strong and full of umami. Personally, I loved the contrast of the taste of the Katsuo with the Shari (sushi rice) and it was a fish with its own taste profile and unique character.

Otoro (Tuna Belly)

One trait of Yano-san is that he loves to make his sushi substantial so he moulds a little more rice when hand-forming the nigiri, and his cuts of fish are thick and luscious. So my excitement when I saw the Otoro, was akin to a child waking up on Christmas morning and opening his presents. Christmas did come early for me that fateful day in Osaka, and Yano-san was my Santa Claus. Taking one look at burly me, he cut the fish extra thick for me, and with a little dab of the very mild wasabi on top of the fish (instead of in between the fish and rice), I closed my eyes and just savoured the wonder of the richness of the Otoro. The pleasure I got here is not typical of the high-end sushi joints, but more of a blue-collar worker style type of ecstasy. For lack of a better description, to use oral sounds, the otoro here is more of like an "Oomph", or in Singaporean terms, "Shiok", instead of the typical "Ahhh..." which is commonly associated with Otoro. Whatever the case, the tuna belly here was so decadent and addictive I asked for one more piece in addition to the pair I was served.

Ishidai ("Stone Perch". A member of the Snapper "Tai" family)

The next piece was a first for me. In the snapper family there are many fishes like the normal Tai (snapper), the Kinmedai (Golden-eyed Snapper) and then there's the Ishidai, which has no real, accurate English Translation. The slice above has many layers, and I'm guessing that's the fish meat and fat stacked nicely in one rectangular piece. Taste wise, it's also typical of a Shiromi Dane (White fish flesh topping), but the texture itself was special, slightly crunchy and meaty, which reminded me heavily of Swordfish.

Saba (Mackerel)

Moving on to the Hikari Mono ("Shiny Matter". Refers to fish with shiny skin like Mackerel, Gizzard Shad and Sardine), I was served a pair of Saba nigiri. Shiny, gleaming skin with a silver sheen, together with that wonderful oily texture, a strong but not overpowering fragrance of the fish having undergone marination, I enjoyed this sushi very much. Chewing for a minute or so, the flavours develop and evolved constantly and my taste buds were working non-stop.

Anago (Conger/Sea Eel) Where's the rice???

Yano-san took out a huge piece (almost one half) of Anago which has been boiled before service, and placed it onto a mini grill. The aroma of the lightly grilled eel started wafting through the tiny space and there were visible "ooohs" and "ahhs" resounding through the shop. He moulded some rice, placed it on the centre of the eel, rolled this monster and placed it on my plate and said to me "Try downing this in one go".

Challenge accepted.

Using two hands, I carefully compacted the sushi making sure no rice fell out, and stretching my jaws as wide as humanly possible, I opened wide and gobbled the whole thing down, with my hand cupping over my mouth in case anything fell out and caused any visual unpleasantness to the other guests. Yano-san gave a wide smile and nodded approvingly, and my fellow guests erupted in rapturous applause at accomplishing this insignificant, but oh-so-entertaining feat.

Risks of almost choking aside, The Anago was meltingly tender but yet maintained its structural integrity at the same time. The sauce was not too cloy or overly sweet, just enough to coat the fish and raise the taste level a notch higher. Coupled with the short grilling process, it was what I envisioned it to be. Smoky, sweet, savoury and in this case, substantial.

Ebi Sushi (Prawn)

By this point my stomach was at about 70% capacity. But Yano-san showed no signs of letting up or cutting me any slack. Taking out 2 large prawns, he butterflied and moulded them into a nigiri for me. The prawns were fresh, succulent and crunchy.

Uni (Sea Urchin)

Uni. Glorious, Wondrous, Creamy, Buttery, Uni. I would not mind having 2 pieces of this anytime. This was just simple, pure indulgence at its finest. 

Bamboo Shoot Sushi

I told Yano-san that my stomach was reaching critical levels and he told me "Okay! But just one more to close your meal." He took out a long, clean hunk of bamboo shoot, sliced out a piece for me, drizzled a little sauce over it and moulded it into sushi. It was crunchy, light and emitted a slight herbal fragrance. This was indeed a wonderful closing to such a heavy but satisfying meal.

Make no mistake. The Sushi here is not elegant or refined. But to say Koyoshi caters to the masses would be doing them a disservice and great injustice. Yano-san may not be using the most luxurious or top quality ingredients or fish, but everything here is made painstakingly from scratch, and done with years of experience and lots of love. If you want waiters eagerly fussing over you and the itamae offering you a slice of the finest otoro with shimofuri marbling that can set you back $80 a piece, this is not the place for you.

However, if you're looking for artisanal, relatively inexpensive sushi that the locals go for, if you want to dine in a cosy environment where in one seating you can see a mixture of international guests from all over the world all squeezed up in a hole-in-the wall, sharing their cultures, this is the place to be. I was seated next to an American couple whom I learned hailed from Florida, and this was their first time in Japan. Likewise, they journeyed here after watching Anthony Bourdain's video. I was only too happy to listen to their life stories, and also helping them translate and explain the various sushi they were eating. 

Mr and Mrs Yano

This is informal dining at its basic form. Mr and Mrs Yano's sushi, together with their affable nature and welcoming smiles are enough to encourage people from Japan and all over the world to sit and enjoy sushi together, putting our differences aside and united by a common love for food.

With Koyoshi Sushi, I conclude the Osaka Series of 2014. It has been one heck of a journey of feasting and enjoyment, and the money and time spent were worth it in comparison to the amount of real-life knowledge I gained about Japanese food, the fond memories of the friendly restaurant owners I have come to know, and the experience I have gained here is more than enough to last me a lifetime.

Koyoshi Sushi
1-3-12, Shibata, Osaka-shi, Japan

Operating Hours:
Mon - Sat
1800 to 0000

Closed on Sundays

How to get there:
The nearest station to Koyoshi Sushi is Umeda Station on the Osaka Subway. When you alight at Umeda, make your way to Hotel New Hankyu, and take the rear exit. Cross the road and you should encounter a small alleyway and the shop is along the triangular alley. Koyoshi is very easy to miss so keep your eyes peeled for the curtain sign shown above.

Koyoshi Sushi's price are varied. The Omakase featured here cost SGD $90 at the point of purchase.
Ala Carte or Omakase is available here.
Please note that Mr and Mrs Yano speak very little English.

Anthony Bourdain featuring Koyoshi Sushi from 40:16 onwards.

Hashida Sushi: From Kachidoki to Mandarin Gallery

Itamae (Sushi Chef) Tomoo Kimura

Hashida Sushi is the first overseas extension of the original "Hashida Honten" which is based in Kachidoki, Tokyo, and helmed by grandmaster Tokio Hashida. Hashida Sushi in Singapore, located in the Mandarin Gallery is being overseen by the son, Kenjiro "Hatch" Hashida, a graduate of the prestigious L'Ecole Tsuji Tokyo, the top culinary school in Tokyo and he has also apprenticed with his father since he was 14 years old. "Hatch"-san travels back and forth to manage operations in the Singapore outlet and the suppliers back in Japan.

The restaurant opened to much fanfare and publicity all over the online community, food magazines and newspapers alike. Specializing in Edomae Sushi as well, it was another place I was glad to strike off my "To-Eat Places" list, as I headed down for lunch. Opting for the Ayame Set Lunch at $120++, I sat down in eager anticipation of the sushi.

Steamed Yuba (Beancurd Skin) with Oolong Jelly and Ikura

For the amuse bouche, a refreshing beancurd and oolong jelly teased the palate lightly, with the ikura and wasabi providing a little oomph into the otherwise bland but clean tasting yuba

Scallop Chawanmushi (Steamed Egg)

For the second appetizer, a piping hot bowl of chawanmushi with a lightly seared Hokkaido scallop and mushrooms. Now I am generally not a fan of chawanmushi, but what really stood out for me was the fragrance of the dashi (cooking stock made from primarily kelp) which wafted through my nostrils and increasing my appetite. The egg was curdly and pillowy, with the scallop and mushrooms providing some much needed texture and umami to the dish.

Hirame (Flounder)

Commencing the Sushi Course was the Hirame. Fresh, clean and light, like how good hirame should be at any top restaurant.

Kinmedai ("Gold-eyed" Sea Bream. A member of the "tai" (Sea Bream/Snapper) Family

Similar to its predecessor, the Kinmedai possessed similar characteristics, with the exception of the texture, this being slightly more chewy and crunchy.

Buri (Adult Yellowtail)

I was a little surprised when they served up the Buri as it was much more pinkish in colour whereas the one in Shinji was more pale. Taste wise, it was similar to the above 2 as mentioned.

Maguro-zuke (Marinated Tuna)

Moving on to the Akami-dane (Red meat fish), we started out with the Maguro-zuke. The tuna was sliced and marinated in special soy sauce for a while before being moulded onto rice and served. The soy sauce provided a much deeper taste profile to the lean tuna. With the sweet, savoury rice that gave an essential temperature contrast, this was a very well-executed nigiri flying the flag of Edomae Sushi high. However, I could not help noticing that the flavours were not so intense as expected. Perhaps if the tuna was left in the soy sauce a little longer, it could have provided a better finish.

Ikura and Uni Rice bowl

I was taken aback when Tomoo-san served up this dish. "Was my lunch ending already?" Thankfully it was not. Imagine savoury, salty umami bombs in the form of ikura (salmon roe) together with rich, luscious and creamy uni (Sea urchin), topped onto their signature shari (sushi rice). The flavours in this bowl were explosive, the textures so varied and seductive. I could have seconds of this anytime.

Asari Miso (Clams in miso soup)

A half-time palate cleanser, the miso here was lighter in colour, but the flavours much more complex with a greater finish, with the clams adding a pleasant sweetness to the soup. This was heartwarming and soothing after a barrage of different sensations from the Ikura and Uni rice bowl.

Aburi Taira-gai (Lightly seared Penshell clam)

Tomoo-san seared the Taira-gai lightly to give it a little lift and bounce in texture. It was tender and chewy at the same time, with a little smokiness from the blow-torching process.

Tomoo-san giving us a lesson on Tuna Anatomy 101

Tomoo-san took out from the chiller, a big block of tuna and enthusiastically explained the various parts of the hunk of tuna. This tuna block came from a tuna which weighed about a hundred kilograms. I was told that even for otoro itself, there were different grades of it, depending on which part of the fish it comes from. For top end Sushi Restaurants, Tomoo-san told us that they would serve tuna which originates from the noten (top of the head), hoho (cheek) and kama (back of the cheek). He also showed us the medium fatty and lean portions used for chutoro and akami respectively.

Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)

Concluding the Ayame Set Lunch was the Chutoro. The little strains of fat added boosted the taste profile of the tuna dramatically, and the rice once again, played the important role of balancing the flavours.


It all happened pretty fast. Too fast in fact, that I was still a little perturbed when Tomoo-san told us it was over, and asked if we wanted any additional items. I was still left unsatisfied, so I asked if they had kohada (gizzard shad) or akagai (red clam). It was not my day as Hashida does not sell kohada (due to it's often fishy nature which Singaporeans tend to dislike), and the akagai shipment had not arrived yet.

Engawa (Dorsal fin of the flounder)

Tomoo-san felt a little sorry for us, and so he kindly threw in a complementary nigiri of Engawa. This was a rare item for Edomae sushi, as the dorsal fin of one single flounder, can only be portioned into 4 nigiri pieces. Furthermore, Engawa is usually served to regular customers of the itamae who have established a friendly and long-term relationship. Chewy, crunchy and flavourful.

Kama-otoro (Otoro from the back of the cheek of the Tuna. This was an additional order )

I would not be able to live with the fact that I went to Hashida and left without having the prized otoro, so I decided to add this on as my final nigiri. The marbling was just unreal, and it was so melt-in-the-mouth tender, that when I chewed, my teeth touched the shari, with the fish already dissipating ever so quickly in the mouth with its sky-high fat content.

Fresh Japanese Orange Wedges and Ichigo (Strawberries)

For dessert I was hoping to have the mizu manju (water dumpling) that I saw in other online articles, or "Hatch"-san's macarons (He also happens to be a pastry chef). But I had no complaints with the really sweet strawberries and orange wedges, which concluded the meal nicely.

The food quality here was unquestionable, with fresh items flown in from Japan directly twice a week, but there were some other aspects other than the food which I was disappointed by.

Firstly, was the pace of the meal. This entire lunch set lasted less than an hour including preparation time by the chef. It felt rushed and I found myself unable to take my time to really taste the sushi properly.

Another aspect which did not sit well with me was the progression of the sushi course. We started out with 3 pieces of the shiromi-dane (white fish) but then deviated and went off tangent when Tomoo-san presented the uni and ikura rice bowl so early in the course, which misled my companions and I into thinking that was the end, and then moving back to akami-dane again.

Lastly and more importantly was the value of the set lunch. There was a little too much emphasis on the shiromi-dane and because of this, we did not have items like the kuruma ebi (cartwheel shrimp) and anago (sea eel). The otoro, despite its mind-blowing nature, costed a whopping $45++.

To be fair to Hashida however, the otoro was undeniably the best I've had so far compared to the numerous places I have been to, and the shari here edges out Shinji's due to its stronger flavour and temperature contrast, with the right balance of sweet, savoury and sour. Also, I noticed that the chefs here were more lively and engaging to the guests (credit to the cheerful and affable nature of Chef Tomoo) which contributed to the much livelier, albeit noisier environment. Also, the other intricate items for the guests like the oshibori (hot wet towel) provided both before and after the meal, the smooth hinoki (cypress wood) sushi counter, and finger towel for guests to wipe their hands on after using them to eat the sushi, were all present.

Between the 2? My vote goes to Shinji for giving me better value, and a more traditional experience with an intimate setting and quieter atmosphere. But the quality and form of Hashida Sushi cannot be understated as well with the high quality ingredients used and the skills of the chefs. With a little re-engineering of the Set Lunch menus and a better usage of time, Hashida is fully capable of delivering a wonderful Omakase worthy of any taste buds. 

Hashida Sushi
333A Orchard Road

#02-37 Mandarin Gallery
Singapore 238897

Open from Tuesdays to Sundays

Lunch: 12pm - 3pm

Dinner: 7pm - 10pm

6733 2114

Nearest MRT Station: Orchard

Link to their website