Genkatsu. It's Pork Cotton Candy.

THIS SHOP IS CLOSED

Kimukatsu Trio Platter.
From left clockwise: Yuzu Pepper, Garlic and Cheese

Mention the word Tonkatsu and most would immediately think of a large, thick slab of pork coated with flour, eggwash and fine panko (japanese breadcrumbs) deep fried to a golden crisp and bursting with juices.

I present an alternative to you today: The Kimukatsu.

Considered a variation of its more common counterpart, the approach to kimukatsu is to cut the meat into paper-thin slices and stack them meticulously one on top of the other before breading and frying them. As you can imagine, the process is much more tedious and requires more skill and finesse to execute properly.

Enter in Genkatsu, a little restaurant located on the third floor of a narrow spiral building in the upscale district of Ginza in Tokyo. Having been here for close to a decade, it has gained a sizable following and loyal customers alike.

Genkatsu considers each aspect of the Kimukatsu carefully. The batter is thin, crisp and not oily. The pork they use is locally sourced kurobuta, thereby ensuring consistency in its quality.

Yuzu Pepper Kimukatsu

Genkatsu also provides a wide variety of flavours to spice things up and give customers more choice. Aside from the plain Kimukatsu, flavours like Cheese, Garlic and Black Pepper are also available. I selected Cheese, Garlic and Yuzu Pepper as these are my top 3 favourite flavours in their menu.

Cheese Kimukatsu. Molten goodness.

"Won't the cheese overpower/interfere with such a finely sliced piece of pork which is already so flavourful?"

I am glad to say otherwise. On the contrary, the cheese further augments the umami sensations and increases satisfaction levels twofold. The profiles of the pork and cheese complement each other very well and it is no wonder that their cheese kimukatsu is the most popular choice here among the customers.

But the differentiating factor lies not so much in the flavour but in the texture itself. A normal tonkatsu, no matter how tender still requires some form of chewing. At the first vertical motion of the jaw, kimukatsu practically dissolves like cotton candy, while still releasing sufficient juices at the same time. In essence, you're getting pork fairy dust neatly encased in a crisp, thin batter. Ladies who are not fans of overly heavy and substantial fried meats would find this a wonderful alternative to enjoy katsu.

Layers

Each cutlet is thoughtfully cut into equal, bite-sized pieces to minimize effort on the diner's part. Pick up your chopsticks, carefully grab a piece and feel the kimukatsu literally melt by the mere heat from your tongue.

Rice cooked ala minute

Another notable highlight is that the rice here is prepared in individual portions and cooked only upon every new order. They time it such that when the kimukatsu is ready to be served, the rice will be literally fresh out of the steamer to be served to the guests. Kudos to the management team and staff for taking on such a laborious process to go that one step further in quality.

Genkatsu offers a refreshing and refined take on tonkatsu, while still retaining the usual services such as free flow cabbage and rice. The dining atmosphere is comfortable and not too formal while the service staff are cheerful and efficient. A whole range of condiments (tonkatsu sauce, salt and ponzu are available to go with the meats) and cabbage here is free flow like any other respectable tonkatsu establishment.

This place warrants multiple visits for its commitment to quality. The prices here are also easy on the wallet, which makes it more accessible for customers. Come here if you wish to experience a new perspective on the humble tonkatsu and be pleasantly surprised.

Genkatsu (Ginza Branch)
4-6-18 Ginza
Ginza Act Building 3F
Chuo 104-0061
Tokyo Prefecture

Operating hours:
1130-2300
Last order at 2230

Nearest Station:
Ginza Subway Station on Ginza Line, Hibiya Line and Marunochi Line.

Link to their website.

English menus are available, but they differ slightly from the Japanese menu so having a dining companion familiar with the language would be advantageous.

Tonkatsu Ma Maison: The Best Katsu in Singapore??

Kurobuta Rosu (Loin) Katsu

Continuing on my journey to find really good Katsu, there has been no lack of places here in Singapore which specializes in this Japanese dish. Saboten, Tonkichi, Ginza Bairin and Tampopo are some of the names which have already established themselves here.

But few of them have rarely commanded a snaking, never-ending queue like Tonkatsu Ma Maison. Ever since its opening, people have flocked from all over to Mandarin Gallery to have a bite of its Tonkatsu. Many a reviewer/critic have also staked their claim and put their heads on the chopping block, saying that they have truly found a place which serves up the best Japanese Pork Cutlet here in our sunny island.

With such raving reviews and constant invitations from friends, I finally found an evening where it was thankfully not crowded to finally satisfy my curiosity. Are they truly serving the best here?

I was torn between the Mangalica Hungarian Pork Loin and the Kurobuta Loin. I went with the latter in order to make a fairer comparison between the other Katsu-yas in terms of the product used for its dishes.

One bite, and I knew this was something different. The pork here was oozing with juices and the batter was shatteringly crisp. The folks here at Tonkatsu Ma Maison cut the tonkatsu into really thick slices in order for their guests to fully get a divine-swine explosion of flavours in the entire mouthfeel. It was not only juicy and crispy, but I definitely detected a stronger mouthfeel at the back of my palate about a minute after I was done. I'm guessing this is testament to the meticulous care they take in only selecting the best type and parts of the pig for their menu.
However, one gripe I had was that the temperature was a little too lukewarm for my liking upon serving. The restaurant was not crowded that day and service was generally efficient. Maybe the Chef wanted to rest the pork for a few minutes? That said, this is really a fantastic piece that fulfills the criteria of a good Tonkatsu.

Side Order: Ebi (Prawn) and Kaki (Oyster) Katsu

My friends ordered a Sampler Set which featured a really long Ebi Katsu (about the length of a human thigh. They even gave a fork and knife for you to cut the prawn into smaller pieces) and half of the loin and tenderloin of the pork, which really piqued my interest. Deciding to add a side order of prawn and oyster just to taste, I was glad that they take the same amount of care of their seafood just as they would for their pork items. The oyster and prawn were fresh and crispy. Again, the slight issue was with the temperature.

Chamomile Jelly (Comes with the set)

A unique and elegant gesture about this place is that instead of offering the usual matcha ice cream for dessert as most other places do, they presented a pale block of jelly which my friends and I were trying to guess the flavour. Upon confirmation from the waiters I was delighted to find out it was chamomile. The light and refreshing floral jelly provides a light and pleasant contrast to the otherwise heavy and full-bodied pork and balances the experience of meal overall. A small but important touch, I feel.

Tonkatsu Ma Maison has really taken Tonkatsu here in Singapore to the next level by offering higher quality products, but of course at a premium. They are also starting to introduce newer products like the Mangalica Hungarian Pork Katsu and the kimukatsu (Mille Feuille) Katsu. While I can be still satisfied by my comfort place at Saboten, this is a place for someone who seeks a higher level of culinary contentment, and they fairly give for what they charge, just as one would get what he pays for.

If they are able to iron out their service issues and serve their Tonkatsu piping hot to their guests, hands down, this place will be a worthy accolade of "Best Tonkatsu in Singapore"  in my humble opinion. But until then, I am happy to head to Saboten anytime for Tonkatsu due to factors like travel time and pricing. However, I am still glad someone is taking the art of Tonkatsu seriously and attempting to push the limits in order to give guests a fantastic experience here.

Tonkatsu Ma Maison
#02-35/36, Mandarin Gallery
333A Orchard Road

Operating Hours:
Mon to Fri [1100-1500, 1700-2200], (1500-1700, Drinks and Desserts only)
Sat, Sun and PH (1100-2200)

Tel: 6733 4541

Nearest MRT Station: Orchard


Reservations highly recommended especially during peak periods.
Groups will only be seated when all members of the party are present.

Saboten: Crispy, Juicy Tonkatsu

Loin Tonkatsu (Large)

Let's face it. Most things that taste good are usually bad for your health, but we eat it all the same. Who can honestly resist the occasional indulgence of food battered and dipped into hot oil, slowly bubbling until it turns a golden brown colour? One can imagine a piece of meat done this way, with the exterior shattering at the slightest movement of your jaws, and the juicy, sinful meat just oozing into your mouth, paired with a special sauce made from apples and Worcestershire, together with a bowl of rice and miso soup and a side of thinly sliced cabbage.

That is why I love Tonkatsu. Think a beautiful loin cut of  kurobuta, hand battered with a mixture of flour, egg wash and panko (japanese breadcrumbs) and slowly lowered into a pool of vegetable oil to give it that light fluffy crust and resulting in an extremely satisfying and satiating dish when the carnal craving for pork hits you.

Saboten is one of  few special katsu-yas which originated from Shinjuku, Tokyo. It has flourished astoundingly ever since it opened its first restaurant in 1966, and now has outlets internationally including here in Singapore, Korea, Thailand, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

Sesame seeds with a wooden pestle. Coarse or fine? It's up to you

Immediately after placing your order, the waiter then serves drinks, and a bowl of white and black sesame seeds together with a wooden pestle. You are supposed to grind the sesame to your desired texture before adding the tonkatsu sauce into the bowl. I first encountered this in a Katsuya in Japan, and I always thought it was a good way to pass time and work your hands a little while waiting patiently for your food!

Shredded Cabbage, free flow.

To cut through the oiliness of the tonkatsu, shredded cabbage which is served cold, is provided, often free flow. It is cooling, refreshing and appetizing, especially when paired with the 2 dressings provided.

Goma (Sesame Sauce) and Ponzu

The sesame is more viscous, sweeter and smoother. The ponzu is lighter and more acidic as it is made from mirin, rice vinegar, konbu, and yuzu. I like to use a bit of both to give the cabbage a little lift and flavour to get my tastebuds going.

Saboten Special $25. Half pork loin, mini pork tenderloin, Ebi fry, cream croquette.

I love the Saboten Special set as it gives me a sampler of the different items offered by the restaurant. The variety is great and it allows you to have a mixture of both pork and seafood. Between the loin and the tenderloin, I would prefer the loin as it has a bit of fat which gives it a richer mouthfeel. The tenderloin is favoured more by ladies as it is leaner and more tender.

The pork is crispy, oozing with juices but yet not too oily. The croquette is creamy and smooth with its potato and crab filling, and the prawn, which was nicely done also, just adds that surf 'n' 'turf' feel to the whole dish. Another important aspect is that Saboten uses short-grain rice, which is slightly more starchy and moist, and enhances the experience overall.

Ebi Katsu

Saboten also features seasonal specials like on this occasion, the ebi katsu. Think a dozen small prawns, hand formed into a round cutlet and fried expertly, and paired with a creamy tartar-like sauce. The prawns were sweet and crunchy and paired together with the sauce, it was just simply scrumptious.


Saboten is one of those comfort places I go to when I am craving for Tonkatsu, and they have always delivered consistently. Located at Terminal 1 of Changi Airport, they command a very healthy crowd throughout the day, and reach full house frequently during the weekends. If you are looking for good Tonkatsu, this is certainly a place that can definitely hit the spot.

Oh, and did I mention that the Rice, Miso Soup and Cabbage are free flow?






Saboten
Changi Airport Terminal 1
#03-21. Above the Departure Hall

Operating Hours:
Open Daily
07.00 to 23.00
Last Order and Bill Settlement at 22.30

6214 5904

Nearest MRT Station: Changi Airport