Saturday 28 September 2013

Saboten: Crispy, Juicy Tonkatsu

Loin Tonkatsu (Large)

Let's face it. Most things that taste good are usually bad for your health, but we eat it all the same. Who can honestly resist the occasional indulgence of food battered and dipped into hot oil, slowly bubbling until it turns a golden brown colour? One can imagine a piece of meat done this way, with the exterior shattering at the slightest movement of your jaws, and the juicy, sinful meat just oozing into your mouth, paired with a special sauce made from apples and Worcestershire, together with a bowl of rice and miso soup and a side of thinly sliced cabbage.

That is why I love Tonkatsu. Think a beautiful loin cut of  kurobuta, hand battered with a mixture of flour, egg wash and panko (japanese breadcrumbs) and slowly lowered into a pool of vegetable oil to give it that light fluffy crust and resulting in an extremely satisfying and satiating dish when the carnal craving for pork hits you.

Saboten is one of  few special katsu-yas which originated from Shinjuku, Tokyo. It has flourished astoundingly ever since it opened its first restaurant in 1966, and now has outlets internationally including here in Singapore, Korea, Thailand, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

Sesame seeds with a wooden pestle. Coarse or fine? It's up to you

Immediately after placing your order, the waiter then serves drinks, and a bowl of white and black sesame seeds together with a wooden pestle. You are supposed to grind the sesame to your desired texture before adding the tonkatsu sauce into the bowl. I first encountered this in a Katsuya in Japan, and I always thought it was a good way to pass time and work your hands a little while waiting patiently for your food!

Shredded Cabbage, free flow.
To cut through the oiliness of the tonkatsu, shredded cabbage which is served cold, is provided, often free flow. It is cooling, refreshing and appetizing, especially when paired with the 2 dressings provided.
Goma (Sesame Sauce) and Ponzu

The sesame is more viscous, sweeter and smoother. The ponzu is lighter and more acidic as it is made from mirin, rice vinegar, konbu, and yuzu. I like to use a bit of both to give the cabbage a little lift and flavour to get my tastebuds going.

Saboten Special $25. Half pork loin, mini pork tenderloin, Ebi fry, cream croquette.

I love the Saboten Special set as it gives me a sampler of the different items offered by the restaurant. The variety is great and it allows you to have a mixture of both pork and seafood. Between the loin and the tenderloin, I would prefer the loin as it has a bit of fat which gives it a richer mouthfeel. The tenderloin is favoured more by ladies as it is leaner and more tender.

The pork is crispy, oozing with juices but yet not too oily. The croquette is creamy and smooth with its potato and crab filling, and the prawn, which was nicely done also, just adds that surf 'n' 'turf' feel to the whole dish. Another important aspect is that Saboten uses short-grain rice, which is slightly more starchy and moist, and enhances the experience overall.

Ebi Katsu

Saboten also features seasonal specials like on this occasion, the ebi katsu. Think a dozen small prawns, hand formed into a round cutlet and fried expertly, and paired with a creamy tartar-like sauce. The prawns were sweet and crunchy and paired together with the sauce, it was just simply scrumptious.


Saboten is one of those comfort places I go to when I am craving for Tonkatsu, and they have always delivered consistently. Located at Terminal 1 of Changi Airport, they command a very healthy crowd throughout the day, and reach full house frequently during the weekends. If you are looking for good Tonkatsu, this is certainly a place that can definitely hit the spot.

Oh, and did I mention that the Rice, Miso Soup and Cabbage are free flow?






Saboten
Changi Airport Terminal 1
#03-21. Above the Departure Hall

Operating Hours:
Open Daily
07.00 to 23.00
Last Order and Bill Settlement at 22.30

6214 5904

Nearest MRT Station: Changi Airport






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