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| The Philosophy behind the Sushi of Shinji Kanesaka |
Despite the fame and buzz which came with the name, it was relatively easy enough to place a reservation for a Saturday lunch, and upon arrival, the waitresses clad in kimonos warmly welcomed and ushered me into a room which contained a sushi counter large enough to seat 8 people, and with one chef taking care of the guests there. I opted for the "Tsuki" (月) lunch set comprising of 12 pieces of sushi with an appetizer and dessert.
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| Appetizer: Tuna meatballs with Red Daikon and pickled Nori |
Upon taking my seat, the chef gave a slight bow and checked on my dietary restrictions before proceeding to begin my lunch with the first dish. I was relatively tense and nervous because of the very formal setting of the restaurant, but the waitresses and chef were very affable and welcoming which helped me to ease up a little, as I with chopsticks in my trembling hands, picked up the Tuna meatball together with the Daikon and Nori.
I was pleasantly surprised with the taste of the tuna meatball. No fishy smell, it was indeed almost like beef itself. The nori, slightly crunchy and tender and together with the Red Daikon which was refreshing, this whetted my appetite in anticipation of the Sushi course that was to follow.
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| Buri (Seasonal Adult Yellowtail) |
For a true Edomae experience, there is a certain progression to the order of the sushi being served. The itamae would usually start with lighter tasting shiromi dane (white fish topping which include fish like sea bream, flounder and yellowtail), followed by hikari mono (which means "shiny matter" and refers to fish with shiny skin like the sardine, mackerel and gizzard shad) and then with akami dane (Red fish topping which almost always refers to the tuna because of its red flesh). This is done so that the fish with lighter flavours are served first in order to be properly appreciated and the fish with stronger flavours will enter the meal later on.
I've had kanpachi and hamachi (other varieties of the Yellowtail) before, but this was something to behold. The buri was so clean and untainted, yet fatty and unctuous. Together with the expertly moulded shari (sushi rice) which was served at a higher temperature than the fish which gave it a beautiful contrast, I knew it was the start of something special.
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| Sawara (Spanish Mackerel) |
The second piece of nigiri was also something new to me. The sawara was very much like the buri; Clean-tasting, slightly fragrant, but otherwise pretty similar to the other shiromi dane in general.
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| Ika (Squid) |
Squid is not exactly one of my favourite sushi topping, mostly because I tend to generalize it as just chewy, tough and relatively unexciting. But Shinji's version challenged these preconceived notions. The ika was tender with a good bite, and also slightly sticky (in a way similar to amaebi) which was a pleasant surprise.
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| Chutoro |
Moving on to the akami dane, the Chef cut out a beautiful piece of Chutoro (medium fatty tuna), moulded it and placed it onto my plate. Despite being only medium fatty, the Chutoro was so meltingly tender it threatened to dissolve at the slightest chew, with its omega-3 oils swirling around for a seductive mouthfeel. Very well done.
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| Otoro |
So with the Chutoro already that good, what about the Otoro? Well, sadly I was a bit let down because this cut of the Otoro was not from the highly coveted shimofuri (white snow frost) marbling pattern portion of the fish, but the one with the intermuscular fascia which made it slightly chewy. That said, the flavour was still rich, creamy and full bodied. Between the two? I'd take the Chutoro, but I won't say no if offered the Otoro too.
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| Aji (Horse Mackerel) |
The Aji is one fish topping belonging to the Hikari mono (Shiny Items) category. Due to its often fishy nature, hikari mono fish tend to be served with ginger or spring onions to counteract against the strong smell. But the aji here had almost none of that smell, just fatty and rich like the Chutoro also. If anything, the only "strong" smell/taste came from the ginger topping.
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| Magurozuke (Marinated Tuna) |
Out of the 3 cuts of Tuna, Maguro, (which is sometimes referred to as Akami as well), Chutoro and Otoro, it is said that the flavour of the fish is more evident in the Akami because of the lack of fat. Fatty fish like the Chutoro and Otoro are easy to enjoy, and the flavours are predictable. But it is the Akami which carries the true essence of the fish. The itamae sliced a piece of lean tuna and placed it onto a small plate of soy sauce and let it sit for awhile before moulding it into a nigiri. Popping this in my mouth, I truly appreciated why the Maguro is considered the standard bearer of Sushi. The flavours were so complex and deep. Together with the shari, this nigiri encompassed the spirit of Edomae: Simple, clean, unadulterated and traditional. To be honest, I would be hard-pressed if I was asked to choose between the Chutoro or the Magurozuke.
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| Nama Ikura (Salmon Roe) |
Always a miscellaneous item not to be missed, the itamae moulded some shari and placed it into a small bowl, before topping it with scoops of luscious, sticky, and power-packed salmon roe, topped with freshly grated wasabi, chrysanthemum petals, and lemon zest. With a provided spoon, I was happily digging into the bowl, savouring each little ball of roe which exploded with a myriad of flavours. The interplay of each individual component was so evident, and yet it blended and fit in seamlessly with each other. This was such an enjoyable dish.
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| Kuruma Ebi (Imperial Prawn) |
Top of the line Sushi restaurants will tend to serve Kuruma Ebi (Cartwheel prawn) for the crustacean item, instead of amaebi (sweet prawn). The prawn is boiled and left to cool for a specific period of time, and upon service, the itamae will strip the prawn of its shell, tail and head, but at the same time retaining all the tomalley (brains) inside the head. He then butterflies it, and moulds it into a nigiri for me.
The prawn was slightly crunchy, succulent and flavourful, and the shari lent a refreshing acidic note to balance the nigiri overall. But generally speaking, I prefer my prawns to be slightly undercooked to retain its "crystal-like' translucent texture.
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| Meiji Maguro (Baby Tuna. This one was 2 years old) |
Another new item for me, the meiji maguro is like the equivalent of a veal chop as compared to a steak. Younger, tender and lighter compared to a normal maguro. Chef topped it with a bit of Japanese Ginger and soy sauce.
*Disclaimer: I do not advocate the consumption of young animals or over-consumption of any endangered species.
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| Uni (Sea Urchin from Northern Hokkaido) |
Uni. Rich, Buttery, Fresh, Creamy, and I have simply run out of expletives to describe this wondrous, mainstay item. Enough said, this nigiri sent me to Uni heaven for a good 5 minutes.
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| Anago. (Conger Eel) The piece in foreground is topped with salt. The Piece at the back is topped with tsume (sauce for sushi) |
The Anago, usually signalling the end of the nigiri items. Take an eel caught in sea water, boil it in a master stock and top it with a thick, viscous, sauce that has been handed down for generations which possesses so much complexity. The anago here was sublime. The first one done with the salt was purer, with the salt augmenting the intense flavour of the eel which has been boiled and tended to so carefully. The Anago with the sauce was just out of this world, with the deep and savoury flavour of the fish and the sauce working so well to combine with each other.
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| Tekka Maki (Tuna Roll) |
It is said that makizushi is sometimes more difficult than the art of moulding nigiri itself. Factors like how the itamae rolls the maki, knowing how tight and compact to pack the fish and rice, and cutting it skilfully to ensure that no rice falls out and all lengths of the maki are equal, are paramount to producing a good maki. The chef did it expertly, and this simple and traditional maki was another sushi showcasing the spirit of Edomae also.
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| Asari Soup |
A light and refreshing palate cleanser. Water, japanese clams, spring onions were the only ingredients that went into the soup, according to the chef.
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| Tamago |
I have always felt tamago was but a formality used for ending the sushi course by the itamae, as I have not really found one that blew my mind. This, was different. Egg, mountain yam, fish paste and other seasonings combined into one curdly texture, painstakingly and patiently cooked in a pan, then cooled and served. It was bouncy, light and clean tasting, almost like a custard. I have never tasted tamago like this before, and it was only after eating this before I could appreciate what a certain apprentice of the legendary Jiro Ono went through, having to make tamago a whopping 251 times before it was deemed acceptable by the master.
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| Homemade Pumpkin Pudding |
Desserts are usually used as a closing to the meal, hence most sushi-yas may give decent but not exceptional ones. Shinji by Kanesaka thankfully took as much care on the desserts as much as they do for their sushi. The main body of the pudding was a vanilla custard which was full of vanilla seeds with pumpkin puree inside, topped with caramel sauce, Chantilly cream and pumpkin seeds. It was rich and creamy, but yet refreshing at the same time. It was well-balanced, just like all the sushi preceding it.
Apart from the food, there were so many other tangible aspects of both the kitchen and service processes which made it such a memorable Edomae experience. From the fresh oshibori (wet warm towel) given to me before and after the meal, the attentiveness but non-intrusiveness of the knowledgeable and hospitable kimono waitresses, to the design, decor and furniture of the restaurant. For example, the sushi counter was carved out of a 220 year-old trunk of Hinoki, crafted by a design team whose portfolio includes the Shrine of Ise. There were so many intricacies and minute but important details I observed in between courses of sushi which made it a complete and authentic experience.
I was enthralled, awe-struck and enlightened by the whole experience overall. From the moment I entered, the entire encounter was akin to a step back into the steeped-in traditions and rituals that have carried Edomae Sushi to this very day and age. From the food, to the attentiveness of the service, all the little wares used like the teacups, towels, service plates and more, the entire restaurant felt almost surreal to me.
All I had to say at the end, was "Gochisousama Deshita". I was so thankful for the meal for it was a feast not just for the stomach and tongue, but also the eyes, the heart, and the soul. If you want a true Japanese encounter, this is it.
Shinji by Kanesaka
#02-20, Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road (Via Seah Street Lobby)
Singapore 189673
Lunch Hours: 12pm to 3 pm
Dinner Hours: 6.00pm to 10.30pm
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